DP removal & install w/pics
- Thread starter Don W.
- Start date
SYO237
SyTy Registry
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
I slid mine out from the bottom, had the truck on jackstands as high as I could get it. Just kept on twisting and turning until it basically fell out......plus, I still had the 02 in it.
I know alot try it that way and it doesnt come out. Guess I just got lucky.
Re: DP removal
I slid mine out from the bottom, had the truck on jackstands as high as I could get it. Just kept on twisting and turning until it basically fell out......plus, I still had the 02 in it.
I know alot try it that way and it doesnt come out. Guess I just got lucky.
91blazins10
Active member
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=43114&page=1&pp=15
I got fed up and just took my fender off and pulled it right up the top :lol:
heres what to do with turbo
http://gallery.jsmanufacturing.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=6015
Re: DP removal
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=43114&page=1&pp=15
I got fed up and just took my fender off and pulled it right up the top :lol:
heres what to do with turbo
http://gallery.jsmanufacturing.com/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=6015
Tooky
Serious about performance
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
Hey Don I replied too late but here it is anyways.... This is an old post I made in 2004 I had someone else (Scott G.) submit it on my behalf:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=downpipe+crossmember
Re: DP removal
Hey Don I replied too late but here it is anyways.... This is an old post I made in 2004 I had someone else (Scott G.) submit it on my behalf:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=downpipe+crossmember
ZavzTy547
Senior Member
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
Yep I had to Jack it up and take my tranny crossmember out also but that opened up a new can of worms for me because now I had trouble lining up the crossmember when I tried to reinstall it. It took me several hours to get it lined back up....
Re: DP removal
Tooky said:
Yep I had to Jack it up and take my tranny crossmember out also but that opened up a new can of worms for me because now I had trouble lining up the crossmember when I tried to reinstall it. It took me several hours to get it lined back up....
SY2932
Administrator
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
That's how I ended up getting mine out. Removed the O2 sensor, cat, stock turbo, wheel well, swung the IC out of the way and removed the downpipe bracket off the transmission to make as much room as possible. It should be noted that I was in the process of installing a PTE 3" downpipe and PT-70 turbo so all this stuff had to come off anyways...
I still had the AC in my truck at the time which made things MUCH more difficult
. Spent close to three hours trying to remove it from the top. There was NO way that it was going to come out in one piece from the top on my truck with the AC still in there. The downpipe would make contact with the lower corner of the blower box. While it looked like it was *very* close to coming out from the top, under the truck it wasn't even close. The tail end of the downpipe would get wedged up by the frame "trapping" it in there. If I could have moved the downpipe directly towards the front of the truck, it would have came out except it was hitting the exhaust manifold and wasn't going anywhere.
I had heard that it couldn't be removed from under the truck unless you had it on a lift. Because you wouldn't be able to get it high enough with just jack stands. Needless to say, I was pretty annoyed at the idea of having to cut it in two to remove. That is what "quitters" "hacks" and "get -r-done" types do. Just for craps-n-giggles, I gave it a good tug/twist downwards once and it almost came out... After a little twisting a turning, it was out in less than 20 seconds. Gave me a reminder why I don't always listen to what I hear and read and do it my way instead
.
Re: DP removal
SYO237 said:
That's how I ended up getting mine out. Removed the O2 sensor, cat, stock turbo, wheel well, swung the IC out of the way and removed the downpipe bracket off the transmission to make as much room as possible. It should be noted that I was in the process of installing a PTE 3" downpipe and PT-70 turbo so all this stuff had to come off anyways...
I still had the AC in my truck at the time which made things MUCH more difficult
I had heard that it couldn't be removed from under the truck unless you had it on a lift. Because you wouldn't be able to get it high enough with just jack stands. Needless to say, I was pretty annoyed at the idea of having to cut it in two to remove. That is what "quitters" "hacks" and "get -r-done" types do. Just for craps-n-giggles, I gave it a good tug/twist downwards once and it almost came out... After a little twisting a turning, it was out in less than 20 seconds. Gave me a reminder why I don't always listen to what I hear and read and do it my way instead
Last edited:
SYO237
SyTy Registry
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
yeah, i had the prob with the AC box since my 02 was still in it. didnt remove the xmember either. the cat was a pita, i ended up cutting a slit in it so i could open it up a bit and it came right off. i did have my fender well out, but that was about the same time i stopped putting them back in anyhow.
from there i just messed around with turning and moving the DP up and down until the turbo gods shined down from above and it came right out.
Re: DP removal
yeah, i had the prob with the AC box since my 02 was still in it. didnt remove the xmember either. the cat was a pita, i ended up cutting a slit in it so i could open it up a bit and it came right off. i did have my fender well out, but that was about the same time i stopped putting them back in anyhow.
from there i just messed around with turning and moving the DP up and down until the turbo gods shined down from above and it came right out.
Foot Performance
Donating Member
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
You need to get you bolts soaken with PB Blaster :tup:
Helps a ton
Re: DP removal
Loeryder said:
You need to get you bolts soaken with PB Blaster :tup:
Helps a ton
Loeryder
New member
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
Goin over there tonight to button up the AC and charge my battery.
The Odyssey PC680 sure doesn't like a lot of startups with no run time.
I keep a can of PB in the Ty and another in the cabinet.
The Ty has gone through as much PB in the last year as it has gas. lol
Re: DP removal
Will do!Foot Performance said:
Goin over there tonight to button up the AC and charge my battery.
The Odyssey PC680 sure doesn't like a lot of startups with no run time.
I keep a can of PB in the Ty and another in the cabinet.
The Ty has gone through as much PB in the last year as it has gas. lol
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
OK, had it out a few minutes, too damn hot and tired yesterday. Since I'm not as high as I can get on the jack stands it took two things; get the trans xmember outa the way and, in my case, remove the heat shield. If I'd of been further up in the air the heat shield prolly wouldn't have been a issue but it's an easy removal.
Some hints: PB Blaster for sure. Like it says, let it soak and shoot again. The toughest nut for me was the DP flange nut nearest the engine, hard to get a wrench on that one. So take a big drift punch and small sledge and hit one of the flats of the nut a couple of times. Worked great. Also once you have a box wrench on the nut hold it so there's no slack then hit the other end of the wrench. Sort of a poor-man's impact wrench. Sounds hooky but it works and you have more control than a "real" impact.
Frame rails are 12.5 " off the floor. That's prolly min. I shoulda went higher as everyone says.
Re: DP removal
OK, had it out a few minutes, too damn hot and tired yesterday. Since I'm not as high as I can get on the jack stands it took two things; get the trans xmember outa the way and, in my case, remove the heat shield. If I'd of been further up in the air the heat shield prolly wouldn't have been a issue but it's an easy removal.
Some hints: PB Blaster for sure. Like it says, let it soak and shoot again. The toughest nut for me was the DP flange nut nearest the engine, hard to get a wrench on that one. So take a big drift punch and small sledge and hit one of the flats of the nut a couple of times. Worked great. Also once you have a box wrench on the nut hold it so there's no slack then hit the other end of the wrench. Sort of a poor-man's impact wrench. Sounds hooky but it works and you have more control than a "real" impact.
Frame rails are 12.5 " off the floor. That's prolly min. I shoulda went higher as everyone says.
Last edited:
Loeryder
New member
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
OK, mine is out as well.
Only took about an hour and a half really.
My truck was in TX all its life so there is literally no rust on any of the exhaust parts.
Everything just fell right apart.
I will say I wouldn't try it without removing the crossmember.
Looking up at the DP from the bottom I rotated mine clockwise as I pulled it down,
tail of DP went towards the drivers side.
Hit about 4 or 5 things on the way out that needed a jiggle and I got hung up on my dipstick tube and scratched the crap out of that.
One dumbass thing I did when I jacked the tranny to drop the crossmember, as I rotated the DP and lowered it to the ground it hit my jack before it cleared the heat shield.
I had to put the crossmember back in, drop the jack and then I could get it the last foot or so that it needed.
One thing was when I started putting the JS DP in the 3 holes for the turbo need to be elongated a tad. 2 line up close, one was ogg by 1/16" or so.
Nothing I can;t fix with a rat tail file, but after conquering the DP and sweating balls I was ready to call it a night.
Goin back tonight to get the DP back in and bang out some more of the to do list...
Thanks Don for kicking me in the ass and jumping at the chance to get it done.
Re: DP removal
OK, mine is out as well.
Only took about an hour and a half really.
My truck was in TX all its life so there is literally no rust on any of the exhaust parts.
Everything just fell right apart.
I will say I wouldn't try it without removing the crossmember.
Looking up at the DP from the bottom I rotated mine clockwise as I pulled it down,
tail of DP went towards the drivers side.
Hit about 4 or 5 things on the way out that needed a jiggle and I got hung up on my dipstick tube and scratched the crap out of that.
One dumbass thing I did when I jacked the tranny to drop the crossmember, as I rotated the DP and lowered it to the ground it hit my jack before it cleared the heat shield.
I had to put the crossmember back in, drop the jack and then I could get it the last foot or so that it needed.
One thing was when I started putting the JS DP in the 3 holes for the turbo need to be elongated a tad. 2 line up close, one was ogg by 1/16" or so.
Nothing I can;t fix with a rat tail file, but after conquering the DP and sweating balls I was ready to call it a night.
Goin back tonight to get the DP back in and bang out some more of the to do list...
Thanks Don for kicking me in the ass and jumping at the chance to get it done.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
Well now I'm having a problem removing the studs from the exhaust housing. Using the double-nut system to get a-hold of them, they turn maybe a 1/4 turn then lock up. I assume heat will help, trouble is I only have one of those little propane torch things,:rotf: Push comes to shove I'll take it to work Mon where there's some real heat.:tup: Meantime I removing the puc.
Re: DP removal
Well now I'm having a problem removing the studs from the exhaust housing. Using the double-nut system to get a-hold of them, they turn maybe a 1/4 turn then lock up. I assume heat will help, trouble is I only have one of those little propane torch things,:rotf: Push comes to shove I'll take it to work Mon where there's some real heat.:tup: Meantime I removing the puc.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: DP removal
Re: DP removal
Get a stud removal tool or put a pipe wrench on the stud. Propane torch should get it plenty hot enough. You can use MAP gas too but as bad as mine was, heated it and then PB blasted it and it came right apart.
Check your starter and plug wires while the downpipe is out of the way. Makes it REAL easy to do either.
Re: DP removal
Get a stud removal tool or put a pipe wrench on the stud. Propane torch should get it plenty hot enough. You can use MAP gas too but as bad as mine was, heated it and then PB blasted it and it came right apart.
Check your starter and plug wires while the downpipe is out of the way. Makes it REAL easy to do either.
