KR with loads of alky

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: KR with loads of alky

Rookie said:
Oh sorry. I guess my main goal was to get no KR before I turned the injectors down.

What you are not seeing is that the fuel you have already, is more than likely causing your knock. When I first started tuning, I had my AFR's in the 11.3 range at WOT. It knocked about 5*. I added fuel(to the injectors), and then it knocked 7*. I kept adding it because I thought the more fuel the less it should knock. Well, I found out the hard way that that is not true. I had my AFR's all the way to the low 10's. I talked to a friend of mine who said to take it to 11.9ish. I did and had NO knock at WOT. When I got my alky kit, I did NOTHING to my tune. Hooked everything up, did my first run, AFR's where RICH right off the bat, 10.2's. It knocked about 13*. I added about 8*s of timing and it went down to about 8*KR. Then I started to pull fuel (from the injectors), every time I did it my KR disappeared more and more. Finally, got my AFR's back to 11.9 using 60% of my original injector duty cycle and my knock was GONE.
 
Re: KR with loads of alky

TYTILIDIE said:
What you are not seeing is that the fuel you have already, is more than likely causing your knock. When I first started tuning, I had my AFR's in the 11.3 range at WOT. It knocked about 5*. I added fuel(to the injectors), and then it knocked 7*. I kept adding it because I thought the more fuel the less it should knock. Well, I found out the hard way that that is not true. I had my AFR's all the way to the low 10's. I talked to a friend of mine who said to take it to 11.9ish. I did and had NO knock at WOT. When I got my alky kit, I did NOTHING to my tune. Hooked everything up, did my first run, AFR's where RICH right off the bat, 10.2's. It knocked about 13*. I added about 8*s of timing and it went down to about 8*KR. Then I started to pull fuel (from the injectors), every time I did it my KR disappeared more and more. Finally, got my AFR's back to 11.9 using 60% of my original injector duty cycle and my knock was GONE.

Wow that really sounds like what my problem is. What fuel pressure are you running? I was thinking about backing mine down to 40 psi for starters.
 
Re: KR with loads of alky

Flyin Ryan said:
maybe you have false knock?? you might want to stop spraying alky and try getting your tune right first then you can spray alky and back the fuel off a bit etc .. just an idea I didn't re read this whole thread so if that makes no sense sorry

Thats what I did. I got my stock 15 psi tune and then started from there. I need 50 psi fuel pressure to run stock boost with 100% no knock. Im really starting to think I might have false knock also. The thing that makes me shake my head is with all this trouble I have tuning this thing its starting to pull like a raped ape. I was spinnnig all four wheels out of the hole. I have some new tires on this thing too.
 
Re: KR with loads of alky

Tooky said:
It's a lot more challenging tuning additional FUEL (alky) when you don't know your Air FUEL Ratio...

I know Im such a cheapscate. I dont want to pay all that money for an oistrich and then drill into my exhaust mainfold. I already feel like I have too much to watch in the cab already. Between watching the road, boost gauge, ETG, speed, the laptop, dogs, cats, and cops. Its really starting to get crazy. I would really kill to have an AWD dyno right now.
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: KR with loads of alky

You are going about it all wrong. You could make your life easier but you will have to spend a few bucks. First off, with Code 59 you dont need a seperate bung. It goes off of your WB data. I can bet my new DP im building that that is your problem. You are going to chase your tail around and around til you end up selling it because you cant figure it out. You can not tune this correctly with changing FP. Even if you get it right at WOT, the rest of it will suck. You dont want that. I have my FP set at 50 with the vac line on. I am about to go back down to 45 though. Probably even lower when I get my new injectors. I run 33lb injectors. Gotta start listening, especially when it comes to this stuff. You may read a lot about how people with Ultimates find a happy setting and run good times but there are also the people (like me) who never had good luck with them. I didnt, my truck was different I guess.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: KR with loads of alky

Rookie said:
I know Im such a cheapscate. I dont want to pay all that money for an oistrich and then drill into my exhaust mainfold. I already feel like I have too much to watch in the cab already. Between watching the road, boost gauge, ETG, speed, the laptop, dogs, cats, and cops. Its really starting to get crazy. I would really kill to have an AWD dyno right now.
Regardless of which chip you have, there's no need to drill into the exhaust. Most modern widebands all have Narrowband O2 outputs. Meaning you put the wideband in place of your original O2 sensor and then it serves dual duty as a wideband and stock O2 sensor. I have both my car/truck set up like this. There's no reason for anybody to have more than 1 bung as far as I know. Unless they have a wideband that doesn't have narrowband outputs?
 

turbodig

Active member
Re: KR with loads of alky

Tooky said:
Regardless of which chip you have, there's no need to drill into the exhaust. Most modern widebands all have Narrowband O2 outputs. Meaning you put the wideband in place of your original O2 sensor and then it serves dual duty as a wideband and stock O2 sensor. I have both my car/truck set up like this. There's no reason for anybody to have more than 1 bung as far as I know. Unless they have a wideband that doesn't have narrowband outputs?


I've seen a lot of "simulated narrowbands" that don't work worth a crap. Furthermore, the ECM isn't really calibrated for the voltage profile of the "simulated" stuff.

I've run both on mine since we started doing widebands, and the ones I put in all have a bung for the WB, and one for the stock.

And, I still use both in terms of data... the stock NB data, while not accurate, can still give you a sanity check of whether or not your wideband readings are "real".

The second bung doesn't have to be in the engine compartment... you can also put them
down below, ahead of the cat, if there is one.

Pretty much any muffler shop with a wire welder can put a bung in, in a matter of minutes.
All you need is a drill bit, a welder, and the bung.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: KR with loads of alky

You bring up a good point, I guess it depends on the quality if your model wideband narrowband output. I can say that the PLX Devices model M-300 narrowband outputs work, I have em in both my Syclone and 90 Turbo Grand Prix, on the T.G.P. my gas mileage remained exactly the same as when I had a stock O2 sensor (obviously a closed loop application).
 
Re: KR with loads of alky

I disagree with whats being said. Your not getting an accurate reading after the turbo. By that time the engine exhaust is doing a lot of cooling and expanding. Your most accurate readings are going to come off the exhaust manifolds. Also after the turbo you're just geting combined cylinder readings. How do you know one of the cyclinders is not running lean? All you can see is combined airfuel ratios.
 
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