stock boost gauge

[i8av8]

does the stock boost gauge run off of vacuum or is it electrical:dunno:? i would like to disengage it. it reads nowhere near the digital after-market one so any help to disconnect either vacuum or electrical portion of it or if there is a diagram of it i can go off of will be greatly appreciated. tia!

 

[SCWolverine]

Re: stock boost gauge

Electrical, 0-5V, fed from the MAP sensor. That being said, disconnecting it isn't likely to make it much more accurate, but stranger things have happened I suppose...:dunno:

 

[i8av8]

Re: stock boost gauge

well this is pretty strange, at least for me it is.

after posting the question, i went out to the truck and started messing with the hard vacuum line that is running through the fire wall (the one right in front of the dizzy). i disconnected that line and the check valve from my afpr and thought maybe that it ran off vacuum and that was the line. turn the truck on and the stock boost gauge was still reading. i go on a test drive and now the stock boost gauge is almost as accurate as the digital boost gauge:dunno:. that hard vacuum line was sending vacuum to the diaphragm ball to the floor vent door right in front of the gas pedal.

is this something that any of you have encountered? is this ok?

 

[i8av8]

Re: stock boost gauge

Well, not sure why the calibration of the boost Ga changed, but now the HVAC doors won't work correctly.

The boost gauge can be disconnected at C212. This is the 10-pin connector in the harness that is by the ECM. Pin K, lt green wire. The connector has little letters on it, denoting the pin position. Disconnect the connector halfs, and remove the pin from one shell-half, rather than cutting a wire.

Dave

i understand what you are saying about the hvac doors, but i don't have a/c or heat and i did think about this ahead of time so i did not completely shorten all connectors, wires, and vacuum lines incase i decide to put it all back. now i just need a/c and heat delete for the dash.

thanx for the description on the boost gauge wire at the ecm. sounds too easy to pass up.

let me pass on some imaginary syty buck$ as a token of my appreciation. no seriously, i really appreciate it, thanx!

 

[bezerk]

Re: stock boost gauge

i'm not sure, but the vacuum that goes to the AFPR get's T'ed at the back of the manifold and that goes to the Map sensor and the FPR. i don't recall the HVAC and all of that crap runs of the same port as the map and the afpr.

 

[i8av8]

Re: stock boost gauge

i'm not sure, but the vacuum that goes to the AFPR get's T'ed at the back of the manifold and that goes to the Map sensor and the FPR. i don't recall the HVAC and all of that crap runs of the same port as the map and the afpr.

YES!, i know, i agree completely but i did not put it like that. it came that way when i bought the ty. i don't know much if anything about these syty's but that just did not sit right with me to begin with:tdown:

 

[i8av8]

Re: stock boost gauge

Well, not sure why the calibration of the boost Ga changed, but now the HVAC doors won't work correctly.

The boost gauge can be disconnected at C212. This is the 10-pin connector in the harness that is by the ECM. Pin K, lt green wire. The connector has little letters on it, denoting the pin position. Disconnect the connector halfs, and remove the pin from one shell-half, rather than cutting a wire.

Dave

davep, thanx for that clear description on how to disconnect the boost gauge. werked like you said. got a bunch of tools to remove and turns out i didn't need them. took less than five minutes to do :tup: as a token of my appreciation i'll send you five imaginary syty bucks, no seriously, thanx!!!!