11 Second Recipe

Vaders Sy

Vaders Sy

Donating Member
I have done the search for a build up but didn't find what I was looking for. I remember myclone did a build up using low, med, all out race budgets but didn't see that topic in all 26 pages of past posts.

Here is my situation, the Sy was making a loud noise while driving/cruising. Oil pressure is below normal from what I remember (at idle after warm 8 psi). I believe it was much higher than that before. Lastly, it does have some blue smoke when driving.

As a result of this, I have taken my Sy to Bob Martin, know to the GN guys as Turbo Bob, and he currently has it at his shop. Haven't talked to him in a couple days but last I talked to him he believes I spun the main bearing(s). I have done the search for this but no one stated how much they spent on this repair. It all depends on what is replaced but...

Anyway, with that in mind, while the motor is out, what can I do to make it a 11.2-11.5 ride that is reliable? Current setup has yielded a 12.2 @108 timeslip but I want more. What can I do. I have a decent amount of money for this project so in your opinions what should I do to get where I want to be?

You can look at my mods at my website:
http://www.geocities.com/turbosixes/

Thanks for the help!
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
I've got 3 trucks at my shop in that condition riight now.

good luck making one reliable in the low 11's. without spending 10-12k
 
ghettosled

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
you'll need a bigger turbo, stand alone engine management, injectors and a tranny that is ready for the abuse.
 
10secTy

10secTy

Sy-Ty builder and Tuner
ghettosled said:
you'll need a bigger turbo, stand alone engine management, injectors and a tranny that is ready for the abuse.
Click to expand...

I disagree on the stand alone engine management :wink:

Nolan
 
1

100in6

100in6
it all depends what your definition of "reliable" is. constant problems, seldom problems, or never problems.

never problems is not obtainable unless you build it bullit proof and spend big bucks...and then never run it hard and keep the boost down. so why bother right.

forged rods and forged pistons. a well prepped block that doesn't have any problems to begin with. stock crank that is good when you start and treated to be even better, 4 bolt main caps conversion is a must. these things will not make a damn bit of power, but they will allow you to use the power makers and have a better chance of it holding up. having someone do a good assembly and use good rings and bearings and all that stuff is a given. good balancing is important if ya want it to live

now the power makers. pick a good cam that makes lots of low power so you don't have to spin the motor at really high rpm. i assume you are gonna stick with the syty stock intake. have it redone for more flow. a good set of vortec heads makes more power even with very little porting and really cuts down on the detonation by having a better design combustion chamber. remember lean is mean... but lean also breaks motors. i don't think i would bother with headers if you don't have em already. nolan doesn't us em and i don't think tony does either. remember your trying to build a torque monster, not a high revver. yes i have headers, but i think if i were you i would save the 1000 bucks they cost and stick the money somewhere else. throw in some big injectors. ask around whats the biggest you can go and still run a chip. nolan would probably be one of the best guys to talk to because i know he has done a lot with tuning the stock computer and using the pocket romulator. a 50 or 60 something turbo. these are your power makers. if ya can't get to where you want you can switch to speedpro or accel, but that will take up a big bunch of your budget.

plan on never having a 700 tran that is totally trouble free if you make a lot of power or launch it hard. ask john waller about how he keeps his together. he's claimin not to be breakin trannys left and right, so he must know something about them. there are some other guys around who can build good 700's. carl rossler, brain green, george blake, and i'm sure there are others. just don't use something designed for a camaro or firebird. the amount of torque our awd puts on trans is much greater. if you do use a standard off the shelf tran i guarantee you will be hearing from the builder "i don't understand how you broke it. i have em holding up to tons more power than your little v6 makes" just warnin ya in advance. put some safety hoops on in case your propshaft lets loose. that way it won't take your transfer case or tranny along with it if it decides to break. in fact, get a better prop shaft. anything you can do to keep the tran runnin cool is a great idea. big cooler, remote filler to change and check for particles if ya cut it open, temp guage. and don't beat on it when it says it's hot like some idiots. (that's how i broke my last transmission :-? ) i use red line atf. i have my doubts about mobil one,i had a tran builder tell me mine had swollen seals in it and he only sees this problem with mobil, and not all mobil. i wonder if they had a bad batch and some of it is still sittin on shelves. maybe thats horse puckey, but i don't want to be the one to do "research" on this topic. use good gas, or at least something like alcohol injection. i've never used alcohol but i know smart guys who do and they claim it works. don't even look at the nitrous tanks when you walk through the speed shop unless you are prepared for the results. you'll probably go faster, but the question is asways ... for how long.

i'm sure there are a lot of things that i've left out. oh yea...tune tune tune tune tune tune. detonation kills motors. and keep the boost at a reasonable amount.

good luck. there's stuff all over this board on builds so if ya look you should be able to find bunches. i think brian green did this basic build. try looking on his website. he's called smeagol.

this is just my opinion. torque monster not high revver. remember going fast isn't only about engine power. traction and reliabiltiy counts too. look at my old syclone phil long has. turbo6. stock block, heads, 50 pound injectors, 52 turbo, headers, converter, stock transmission, and a ton of tuning modifications. he's running mid to high 11's with just that.
 
Vaders Sy

Vaders Sy

Donating Member
100in6 thanks for the reply along with the others that have contributed.

I was planning on have a Stage II built tranny from CK Performance with a 3600 stall with 9/11 lock up converter for the tranny. As for the turbo, I was debating on the PTE 60, 63, or Stealth. The stealth seems to make more power and is cheaper than the 63. Why? Not sure but that's according to PTE's website. Along with the bigger turbo I was going with the 50 # injector or 75#'ers. I was planning on using carillo rods and JE pistons and a nitrited crank. In addition I was going to go with ported L35 heads or vortec heads and a stronger cam such as Comp Cams 09-415-8. I was hoping to change to RPM's a2a as well, but budget looks thin at this point.

Anyway, I think I got the jest of it. Only time will tell if it will fit in the budget. I might have to stick with the TE-44 until I get more cash.

Thanks for all the help.
 
S

smeagol

Active member
Go at least 75# injectors for the ET's you are looking for.

As far as engine management - there are many important factors that will go into it, and it's not as cut & dry decision for most.

The new DFI offers some cool features - read up on Ed's posts. The stocker has some features- if you have the skills, or are willing to pay someone with the skills, to make use of them. New stuff is due out in the future, as well. FAST is a proven easy way of doing things, and most good dyno shops can help you tune it. Some expensive, some cheap.

When it comes to price on the engine management - for the stocker, you'll have to pay to mod your ECM, buy Datamaster, buy a chip burner (or pay Nolan etc to tune it), get a wideband separate, wire it up yourself and so forth. For FAST - you can get a plug n play harness with integrated wb02. DFI v7 should be available in this configuration soon too.

whatever, rambling sucks, i'm outta here
 
1

100in6

100in6
might want to talk to john gerber (windedv6)about his j&e pistons as opposed to mine. both j&e, and both different. i agree with nolan and brian. do the bigger injectors. they work easier i think and consequently i bet are more efficient
 
Vaders Sy

Vaders Sy

Donating Member
Need some advice:

I've decided to go with billet main caps as well as front and rear. Oliver rods and J&E pistons all in a 4 bolt main.

The question is: billet crank or stock crank? The builder is telling me that the stock crank will only make it through 150-250 passes at the strip. I have read the thread about the stock crank and how no one has broken one yet. Is it worth the money and the wait for the billet crank? Or could I get by using the stock crank?

Your help is always appreciated.
 
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