I already did a search, but haven't really answered my questions. I have a pretty much stock Typhoon, I put some 18 inch zo6 wheels on it with some 40 series tires and the gap looks huge to me now. I'm going to do 2 inch blocks in the rear, thats set. But the front... I only have the choice between loosening the tortion bars (really ugly ride) and RPMs coilovers (holy smokes thats alot of money). I am leaning twords loosening the tortion bars, putting in some shims when the alignment gets done. But I know there has got to be others that are lowering thier sytys other ways. What other ways do I have to lower the front of my Typhoon 2 inches?
2 inch front lowering
- Thread starter AZTY
- Start date
NOJIMMY
New member
....additional info on torsion bar drop keys (a reposting):
Registered: Oct 2001
Posts: 2003 4x4 Torsion Bar Drop Trick [REVISED] (05-02-2002 until 01-01-2011) The Torsion Bar Trick has become pretty notorious among the lowered blazer community. Apparently I didn't write the instructions thorough enough for a lot of people. Here is the more detailed revision:
Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.
1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.
2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).
3. At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.
4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.
5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place and tap the crossmember toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.
6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.
7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuater arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.
8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.
9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.
Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.
You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
I have done my best to explain this whole precedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the suspension forum. GOOD LUCK!
_________________
daniel@motivatedspeed.com
ty1724@gmail.com
Registered: Oct 2001
Posts: 2003 4x4 Torsion Bar Drop Trick [REVISED] (05-02-2002 until 01-01-2011) The Torsion Bar Trick has become pretty notorious among the lowered blazer community. Apparently I didn't write the instructions thorough enough for a lot of people. Here is the more detailed revision:
Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.
1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.
2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).
3. At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.
4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.
5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place and tap the crossmember toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.
6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.
7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuater arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.
8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.
9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.
Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.
You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
I have done my best to explain this whole precedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the suspension forum. GOOD LUCK!
_________________
daniel@motivatedspeed.com
ty1724@gmail.com
JuStBlAzIN
Active member
AZTY said:
you do not want to do this on a syty.....i did it to my blazer...wurst night mare ever.... check out the pics http://community.webshots.com/album/71429410BOGSCH
now i got the bel-tech(spelling) drop keys..and monomax shocks...droped 4" and rides like a dream...
JuStBlAzIN
Active member
there is no 4x4 drop spindle...the bel-tech spindle is for a 2wd
So Belltech just never made ones for these cars,
So why hasn't any vendor called them up and asked if they would make them?
I am sure you can get a group purchase cookin on here to get about 20 sets going. I have personally called companies to make parts for my DSM that are now in the market, they just need a bit of convinsing sometimes.
So why hasn't any vendor called them up and asked if they would make them?
I am sure you can get a group purchase cookin on here to get about 20 sets going. I have personally called companies to make parts for my DSM that are now in the market, they just need a bit of convinsing sometimes.
2 Precision Industries Torque Converters for the 90-94 ( non lockup ) and 95-99 ( Lock Up ) Talons/Eclipses. All they needed was for someone to get them the stock converters from each car and then some convincing to them that this part would sell. They do sell as they now dominate over the stock restall converters.
Precision told me that they had done some digging around in the market a few years earlier and were not positive that it would sell. So, I get them the stock converters and a top automatic gun was the test car for them and it came into the market pretty fast. All it took was for some average schmo to get them what they did not have the time or know how to find, two stock converters.
If a vendor on here would get together a good amount of guys to put a down payment on them, the vendor could convince Belltech to make the spindle. These companies do not have time to do market research and advertising so a SyTy vendor could do a lot of leg work for them and get it into the market.
They know its not going to sell a ton, but will make it for a higher price to make it worth their time and resources. Look at a 50% bump over the other spindles in the market, but still probably worth it.
Precision told me that they had done some digging around in the market a few years earlier and were not positive that it would sell. So, I get them the stock converters and a top automatic gun was the test car for them and it came into the market pretty fast. All it took was for some average schmo to get them what they did not have the time or know how to find, two stock converters.
If a vendor on here would get together a good amount of guys to put a down payment on them, the vendor could convince Belltech to make the spindle. These companies do not have time to do market research and advertising so a SyTy vendor could do a lot of leg work for them and get it into the market.
They know its not going to sell a ton, but will make it for a higher price to make it worth their time and resources. Look at a 50% bump over the other spindles in the market, but still probably worth it.
BigBadSmoosh
Picking fights on I-65 since 2013
our stock torsion bar mounts (pork chops/keys) are 2" lower than the stock 4x4 ones from the factory..
It would probably take some effort to get anyone to make new keys
It would probably take some effort to get anyone to make new keys
JuStBlAzIN
Active member
bel-tech makes drop keys....i can drop the clone till it sits 2" oh the ground or i can raise it to bout the stock syty hight..the keys run around 200 i think...i forgot
Matthew Little
New member
drop keys
drop keys
I see some of you talking about using the keys, why does beltech have this as a side note? (L) All except “All Wheel Drive." Will they work fine?
Thanks, Matthew
drop keys
I see some of you talking about using the keys, why does beltech have this as a side note? (L) All except “All Wheel Drive." Will they work fine?
Thanks, Matthew
leadfoot
Member
4X4 drop spindles
4X4 drop spindles
mcgaughys makes 4X4 drop spindles, but not for the S10/Sy/TY/'noma. Perhaps if enough people call with inquirys, then they will get one on the R&D bench. Can't hurt...
https://www.mcgaughys.com/homepage-award.html
4X4 drop spindles
mcgaughys makes 4X4 drop spindles, but not for the S10/Sy/TY/'noma. Perhaps if enough people call with inquirys, then they will get one on the R&D bench. Can't hurt...
https://www.mcgaughys.com/homepage-award.html