Talked to the motor builder and he said it took 2 peices of mallory metal to balance the crank. Is it supose to take that much? I went from the stock rods and pistons to eagles and j&e's.
Hmm, :2cents: You didn't mention the dampener. IMHO proper balance requires -all- rotating (moving) parts. Including the dampener and flywheel. Don't know about the Sy specifically but some external balance engines have weights in the flywheel and the dampener.:2cents:
Well figured out what was wrong. With a lot of help from Mark at Campbell Automotive. Thanks a bunch man!!!!
Apairlently I have a light weight crank from the factory. Which kinda sucks sence I was planning on pushing the crap outa this thng. Anyone know where I could get a good used one from?
Ive got prob a dozen cranks pm me if you want one. but stock cranks are all about the same. the ones with the holes gun drilled in the rod journals are not that much weaker if any IMO. the weakness is in the split pin design and I dont think gun drilling those front and rear rod journals makes that much of a differance. I've used all 3 types in these motors and it hasnt made any differance yet.
most all the perf balancers are neutral balanced from the factory and they tell you not to try and balance them bc the way they work doesnt work out well on a slow spinning balancer. stock ones ya but nice ones I dont try it.
OK is there some thing special that you have to do to get these things to balance? I have taken 2 cranks to the shop and both of them are within 4 grams of each other. The stock stuff has a bobweight of 1014 grams and the new stuff has a bobweight of 990 grams. and his machine still says that he needs to add weight to the crank to get it to balance. The way I see it is if the new stuff is lighter than the old you should have to take weight out of the crank to get it to balance.