Best bleeder valve setup for ext. wastegate?

vortecfiero

New member
I have mine right before the waste gate.
this way when it opens, it only has to pressurize about 1 inch of boost signal line (vacc hose) and the waste gate

on my buddies car its set at 10 lbs and it's solid to 10lbs
 

Syclone#1992

SyTy.net Moderator
smeagol said:
I'd use a regulator with dual port setup on an external.


Brian, I read up on the boost control TECH on your site. Do you have a link to a similar product to what you are talking about above?

Sytyfreak,
So which do you recommend?
 

Syclone#1992

SyTy.net Moderator
Will_in_Denver said:
Who has a decent in-cab?

From my little research so far, the farther away the valve, the more unaccurate the valve becomes. From what I have read, the close to the turbo/gate the better.

Here is the only "in cab" I have found.
http://www.turbosmart.com.au/PDF/FG-GBCV-IC.PDF
Looks nice but I would be kinda worried about control and performance from what I have read. Does it really make a big difference though?
 

smeagol

Active member
Syclone#1992 said:
smeagol said:
I'd use a regulator with dual port setup on an external.


Brian, I read up on the boost control TECH on your site. Do you have a link to a similar product to what you are talking about above?

Here is a dual port control setup
wstgate.gif


Here is a regulator from Sears for $22.99

Buicks have used this setup for years, in many very fast cars.
 

MikeRenz

not stock
turbonetics makes an incab control for there gates too...heres mine:
wastegates.jpg

It has a red-locking ring that locks the knob in place one you find the bleed level you want. kinda cool.
 

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
1: I wouldnt run any controller into the cab if it requires you to route vac lines into the dash, then back to the gate.

2: boostvalve.com's valve DID NOT WORK correctly in the dual port setup shown above (with innovative gate, i swapped to the regulator *no other changes*, now have SOLID boost)

3: buy the regulator, keep the lines short.
 

Syclone#1992

SyTy.net Moderator
SyTyArchives said:
2: boostvalve.com's valve DID NOT WORK correctly in the dual port setup shown above (with innovative gate, i swapped to the regulator *no other changes*, now have SOLID boost)

Boostvalve.com won't work with a single TIAL gate?

SyTyArchives said:
3: buy the regulator, keep the lines short.

You mean the regulator in the picture right? Will the one from boostvalve.com work?
 

smeagol

Active member
I don't understand why you want to use a bleeder valve on an external, when the regulator setup has been proven 65 billion times over with externals. They are cheaper, they are easier to adjust, and they are what are used in air tools to do the exact job you are looking to do.

Get a good spring for your application in an external (i recommend 15psi spring), run a regulator in dual port configuration, as I have posted, and you will be fine.
 

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
looked, and the 35 appears to be a dual port gate, which is the same situation we just went over above.

get a regulator instead of a spring loaded check valve(boostvavle.com).

in my experience, boost was inconsistant and built slowly after overcoming spring pressure
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
the regulator will work with anything.....

also be aware that the turboxs regulator valve is the same idea but much better execution....summitt now has them...

I;ve seen them work and they are a very nice piece.. it has a fine and a course adjustment....


http://www.summittracing.com search for turboxs and you will find several of their valves

OR

http://www.turboxs.com/
 

GEN3Typhoon

New member
I use the one from Turbonetics... it has worked perfectly for boost control on the Deltagate that I had.. and I will continue to use it with the new HKS GT Gate that I bought.

I am with Brian on this one.. the regulator method is the way to go.
 

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
So basically, as of yet, there are no in-cabs that don't have vac lines running in as well...

No-one knows of an in-cab with a remote flexible cable or something?
Do those people just go electronic?

I just want my manual controls in the cab...
Is it worth R&D'ing something for the club?
I would consider, but only if there is a perceived need.
Does everybody have rock solid boost on the regulators even with baro/temp/weather changes?
Maybe Denver is just WAY too random on the weather changes...

Maybe a universal in-cab actuator arm that could be used with any regulator?

Necessity?
Laziness on my part?

-Will
 
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