Bowtie block

TFS355S10

New member
New here, but I'm sure you guys know more about this than I do.

I just got this with a truck I bought a week or so ago. Dropped it of at the machine shop to have it cleaned up and generally checked over.

Any specific problem areas I need to check on one of these?






Looks to me like there should be a second half to this rear seal piece? Would this have to be a machined matched set?



Dry sump.




 

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

Any input on these screens? I understand the screens, but why so high? Maybe to make sure the oil drains to the rear of the block?










 

denny

Active member
Re: Bowtie block

that thing is more problem than its worth. I will trade you for a 4 bolt stock block .30 over , APR studs billet caps.

You will need a two peice to one peice main seal adapter fi you are going to use stock crank and some custom oil pan to clear those main caps.
Drill oil return holes on the valley, i guess.
 

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

I might still be able to get the rotating assembly that was used in it, but not sure on that. I understand it's been through a couple owners since it was taken apart. It was a roundy round motor.
 

Icarus-54

Donating Old Member
Re: Bowtie block

I might still be able to get the rotating assembly that was used in it, but not sure on that. I understand it's been through a couple owners since it was taken apart. It was a roundy round motor.

If it was a circle track motor it's a good bet it's odd fire
 

fivetodrive

CRISPY
Re: Bowtie block

Definately try to find the crank. If you get super duper lucky it may be even fire! If not there are a few people that run odd fire....
 

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

If it was a circle track motor it's a good bet it's odd fire

Definately try to find the crank. If you get super duper lucky it may be even fire! If not there are a few people that run odd fire....

So I'm guessing even fire would be more desirable then. I remember something about the even/odd fire thing from years ago. Even fire will have common journal rod journals on the crank? Or the other way around?

Is the block different between the 2 styles or is that all in the rotating assembly?

I'll try to get ahold of the guy the actually had it complete and see what all, (if anything), he has left.
 

RealFastV6

@jb_and_his_coffee
Re: Bowtie block

Even fire will have common journal rod journals on the crank? Or the other way around?

Other way around. OddFire will be Common Rod Journals like on a SBC. EvenFire will be split.

Is the block different between the 2 styles or is that all in the rotating assembly?

Blocks are blocks so you're fine there. Crank and cam (and maybe rods depending on what was used) are the only specific items in the longblock.


PS. The chances of you finding a dry sump even fire Bowtie from a circle track car are pretty much zero, but it looks like you've got a good block to put the other 7k in parts you'll need to buy into.
 

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

PS. The chances of you finding a dry sump even fire Bowtie from a circle track car are pretty much zero, but it looks like you've got a good block to put the other 7k in parts you'll need to buy into.

I'm not sure that's a good thing or not... LOL 7K $$? Ouch! lol

This one is dry sump and it was a circle track motor, (pretty sure it was just dirt track though, not nascar or busch stuff).
 

e95 Ty

New member
Re: Bowtie block

I'm not sure that's a good thing or not... LOL 7K $$? Ouch! lol

This one is dry sump and it was a circle track motor, (pretty sure it was just dirt track though, not nascar or busch stuff).

$7000 if your lucky..Just for the longblock. Bowtie builds aren't cheap. Ask me how I know..:rant:
 

Icarus-54

Donating Old Member
Re: Bowtie block

I'm building two at the same time,big bucks when you start talking forged cranks,stroker pans,oliver rods and coated pistons
 
Last edited:

DaveP

Active member
Re: Bowtie block

I'm not a race engine builder, but I'll take a guess at the raised screens in the valley. They are to reduce oil from the timing chain from being slung into the valley through straingt-in holes like on a stock block. It appears that the valley oil is evacuated through a hole on the RR of the valley into the flywheel area, then the hose was routed across to the oil filter pad and out of the flywheel area to a stage on the oil scavenge pump. A RR scavenge inlet placement makes sense on a circle track car as roundy-rounders make nothing but LH turns.

Keeping oil out of the valley reduces windage and power losses by reducing the amount of oil the crank has to spin in.
 

90pgt

Donating Member
Re: Bowtie block

check the bore, lot guys ran them pretty big not leaving a lot of room to clean them up
here's an idea of some of the costs of parts for the short block

nice forged stroker crank= 2500-3500 ( good luck finding one)
nice rods=600-1000
pistons= 500-1000
machine work=600-1000
then prolly about another 500 for bearings and hardware

then you start looking at nice heads to go with that short block=lol
 
Last edited:

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

I'm not a race engine builder, but I'll take a guess at the raised screens in the valley. They are to reduce oil from the timing chain from being slung into the valley through straingt-in holes like on a stock block. It appears that the valley oil is evacuated through a hole on the RR of the valley into the flywheel area, then the hose was routed across to the oil filter pad and out of the flywheel area to a stage on the oil scavenge pump. A RR scavenge inlet placement makes sense on a circle track car as roundy-rounders make nothing but LH turns.

Keeping oil out of the valley reduces windage and power losses by reducing the amount of oil the crank has to spin in.

I'm definitely not a race engine builder either, but that sounds like an excellent scenario to me.
 

TFS355S10

New member
Re: Bowtie block

check the bore, lot guys ran them pretty big not leaving a lot of room to clean them up
here's an idea of some of the costs of parts for the short block

nice forged stroker crank= 2500-3500 ( good luck finding one)
nice rods=600-1000
pistons= 500-1000
machine work=600-1000
then prolly about another 500 for bearings and hardware

then you start looking at nice heads to go with that short block=lol

So what you're sayin is, I have the start to an interesting coffee table... LOL And I literally despise those shin bashing pos's.... LOL
 

canadian

sy in progress
Re: Bowtie block

You will also need a good set of heads with a set of expensive rockers. Jesel or the like, which aren't cheap. I think the whole Jesel setup runs $1k+
 

RealFastV6

@jb_and_his_coffee
Re: Bowtie block

that thing is more problem than its worth. I will trade you for a 4 bolt stock block .30 over , APR studs billet caps.

You will need a two peice to one peice main seal adapter fi you are going to use stock crank and some custom oil pan to clear those main caps.
Drill oil return holes on the valley, i guess.

His Bowtie Block is a 1 piece RMS, like the stock block.

(388 castings are all 1 piece)
 
Top