Electronic Spark Control?

[1BADSUV]

My truck pulled a code 42 and my mechanic is telling me I need to replace the computer. I remember reading that the ESC module is located near the distributor. What is the part number for this peice and how hard is it to replace. My motor seem's to run pretty smooth, but the mechanic think's it will run smoother with the replacement of the computer. Any info would be appreciated.

Joel

 

[V6 Kompressor]

ESC is built in the computer on sy/ty's... check the tan wire in the upper passenger floorboard area and make sure the two connector halves are mated together. Check all connections at the distributor, computer ect. Ign. module will set this code also.... This code usually sets when you adjust your timing by unplugging that connector. You have to clear it by diconnecting power to the ecm, usually by taking the negative battery cable off for 30 seconds.

 

[Pittman]

Did you get a 43 as well? I think a 43 will set a 42 off also. That would be the knock sensor. (I think) some one better smack me if Im wrong.

I was getting 42 and 43 as well. Alternator went bad got a new one and havent had any more problems I also checked all the connections to the dist, coil, knock sensor. I know that wild voltage fluctuations will drive the computer/sensors nuts since all most of the sensors or voltage/ohm based. IN short the problem could be a very cheap fix. :angel:

 

[JNR]

ESC problems

ESC problems

I have also had a number of weird ESC problems I have not been able to get sorted-out. Sometimes when the truck is under WOT the truck will just shut down, then afterwards can be throttled- up again . This scenario, which has happened a couple of times, has triggered codes, and has me driving the truck very carefully. I never get the code 042, just code 043. Unfortunately the local GM dealership mechanics are pretty weak when it comes to the Syclone so I have avoided taking it in to them.

So anyway it sounds like the ESC is managed by the trucks computer, and I certainly appreciate the info provided by folks to the original poster(sorry to tag on, but I have done searches in the past and have never been able to find anything specific to ESC problems!). It sounds like I need to double check all distributor connections, and the Tan wire connector mentioned.I am also wondering if the actual knock sensors on the block can cause this kind of problem? My truck is currently running the stock chip, w/cat and ATR exhaust so I don't think I am getting overboost, but the turbo wastegate actuator is the adjustable style and could potentially be a culprit. Although I do have a VDO boost gauge, it doesn't have a peak hold feature and therefore I don't have a great reference of boost level when this scenario occurs.

Just piling on hoping someone has had something similar?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[Pittman]

Replacing a knock sensor couldnt be a bad idea. I cant even remember how much boost a stock truck runs. I think its 14.5 or something?

 

[1BADSUV]

ESC

ESC

Thank's for the reply! I am going to the mechanic and changing out the spark plug's, cap/rotor, and maybe the ignition module. I am hoping this will cure the check engine light. It was pulling the code 42 and 43, it was telling me my exhaust was running lean. The mechanic think's it is my computer because my Typhoon does not run as smooth as my Dad's 93' Typhoon, but mine has 83k on it with all the usual upgrade's. My Dad's is pretty much stock and has never been abused. My Typhoon idle's at about 725 rpm, and the tachometer is alway's pretty smooth and not jumpy. Does anyone think I might have problem's with my Ultimate and 3-bar map sensor? I thought about installing a 3" catalytic converter, since I do not run one. My truck never over-boost's and run's very strong, 13 psi 1st gear, 15 psi 2nd and 3rd gear on T1-15. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow.

Joel

 

[JNR]

Hmmm.... I thought the stock boost was more like 12.5 psi? I might be thinking of the 87 Gn I once owned though. This is where I wish I had an electronic boost gauge like a defi to record the events of peak and held boost. I definitely see spikes with the stock chip over 15 psi, which makes me wonder if that adjustable actuator is set to hold too much boost. Does anyone know is there just one knock sensor or is there two. The local GM tech said he thought there were two knock sensors on the Syclone. Guess I will dig into to it later this week and find out for sure!

 

[V6 Kompressor]

code 43 is usually caused by a faulty knock sensor or that pos knock sensor connector is falling off/loose..... may also code a 42 also..... you know where gm put that sum-biatch (Knock sensor)... right behind the intake, next to the firewall.... if your dad doesn't mind, and you suspect a ecm, just borrow his, chip and all..., or if he is out and his ty is in, borrow it anyway :lol: .... If you have an auto zone, the last sy/ty ecm i bought was about $75, exchange, and they had it in stock! I have a troubleshooting flow chart for both of those codes, if you need it, I'll emal em to you.....

 

[1BADSUV]

Thank's

Thank's

V6 Kompressor,

I appreciate the information, could you email me the chart? I am going to take out the ecm tomorrow and then reinstall it with the Ultimate Chip. I will also check the knock sensor wiring while I am at it. The mechanic is going to test the knock sensor when I install the 3" catalytic converter next week. The code's I am pulling are 42 and 43 with it being a lean exhaust.

Cheer's

 

[Pittman]

V6 Kompressor:

Your exactly right! I have had the connector giving me hell lately. Ill pull a 43 and reach down and twist and push that connector on and I wont get the 43 again for a month.

 

[1BADSUV]

?

?

I looked for the knock sensor by the firewall and could not find it. I have the service manual and it show's one on each side, do you have to remove the distributor to get to it? I would appreciate any information on how to get to the knock sensor. I am still getting the check engine light.

 

[Pittman]

There is only one its down by the oil pressure sender. Its mounted almost vertical just to the driver sided of the oil press sender. I have big arms I have to take a bunch of stuff off to get to it. Some can get to it no problem.

 

[V6 Kompressor]

Sorry about that, its down on the part of the block where the tranny bellhousing bolts to, at the back of the engine, near the oil pressure sending unit, on the driver's side... plug wires, wire harnesses ect. usually covers it up.... I'll tell you one thing, there are a hell of a lot more, better and proper places to mount that unit, than back there... most v-8's and some 4.3's were mounted in front of the starter on the block.... some 4.3's had two of the sensors... I'll email you the test proceedures... one of them entails the use of a hammer and a pipe or extension...., plus a scan tool...

 

[Pittman]

A hammer?? Pipe???

V6 Kompressor

You have to fill me in too...
Sounds like a fun time.

Ok maybe you know the answer to this: How does the knock sensor work? I know its a microphone, but does it work through resistance or ground? Just wondering. Mine gives me hell ever now and then. I have rigged up a tool to push the connector on better and that fixes it for a while.

 

[ed hess]

i would like to know where and how people relocate them. When i have the motor out i can extend the wire, solder and relocate it for easier maintanance if this would still work properly.

ed

 

[Pittman]

I would have to back Ed hess on that one. I would love to move mine. The trucks that run two sensors (the newer 4.3 I take it) do they run them on the same channel to the computer.

 

[V6 Kompressor]

Ok, Ok,.... I have seen some moved to the location of the #2 knock sensor on a NA 4.3, in front of the Starter... it entails lengthining the wire so that the connector can be plugged in to the knock sensor if installed there.... I think if you remove a pipe plug from the water jacket, in front of the starter, that is where it will go... you can get a new connector with about 12" of new wiring (recomended) from your gm parts department, to make sure that you don't get false codes.... you test the knock sensor by hooking up a scanner and observing the knock count, and place an extention or pipe close to it and hit the end of the pipe with a hammer and observe the knock count increase in value on the scanner display... if you have to hit the pipe fairly hard to get a reading or increase in counts, then the sensor is defective... if you read the sensor with an ohmeter, in reference to ground, it should read between 3300 and 4500 ohms... if it reads above or below this reading, then it is considered defective, and needs replacing... make sure you get the right knock sensor... there are a few different types that look the same but will not work properly...

 

[V6 Kompressor]

oh. and as far as the question in relation to the 4.3 na's that use 2 knock sensors, they have an external esc module that read both sensors and they are series/paralleled wired in the circuit. (at least the one that I looked at). IE, both outputs(one wire) are tied in together supply the same input to the module. Confused you yet... I am.... :drinking:

 

[Pittman]

Whao

I bet you have a service manual by your bed and by the toilet, Right??

You a service Tech or manager somewhere, just curious.

 

[V6 Kompressor]

Yes, I am a tech, been a tech for 20+ years, (yep, damn near an old fucker) and I had printed troubleshooting flowcharts and diagrams for emailing to 1BADSUV, but the scanner software crapped out, then the rest of the computer started to go, So I read off the charts and typed em here... I have run into the code 42/43 problems several times this year and the connector was three of the problems, bad sensor in 2 and the wrong new sensor in 1, as far as code 43 went. My software manual says there are two knock sensors in writing, but shows only 1 on the wiring diagram and location map. I am trying to post some of these common problem to solution charts up on Yahoo, so that everyone will have free access to possible solutions to thier problem here. I just have to get around some copywright info.... As far as right now, I am going to load those two fault codes up shortly...