Emissions test failed with tips...what now?

S

Sy0569

New member
Ok guys-

First list of mods:

PTE 52 w/ cat
ATR Exhaust
Ultimate Chip
3 Bar Map
AFPR
EGR Removed
Ron's Fuel Pump
Jabsco Pump
Relocated Intercooler Lines
Recent Conrad Cap/Rotor, Plugs & Wires

What I did before the test:

Disconnected Intercoller Pump
Fuel Pressure Set to 30psi, lots of stumble upon slight acceleration but still driveable
87 octane
1 hour of highway driving before test (heat, heat, and more heat)

Results of test:

Hydrocarbons: 683 Fail! Standard: 220
Carbon Monoxide: 5.1 Fail! Standard: 1.2

The ulitmate was set at T1 15, i know in this mode the EGR is technically enabled, although I've removed all the hardware. I guess some direction from you guys would be useful, seeing as I am unsure of what to do next nevermind the techs comment of...."man, there's a ton more power left in that thing, just take it to a mechanic." Whatever....

Thanks guys.
 
leroy

leroy

Donating Member
A fresh oil change may help get the hydrocarbons down.

If you're driving around at 30 psi, closed loop, won't block learn bring things right back to where they were? Or am I missing something? You could warm up the truck at the regular fuel pressure, then lower it right before you pull in to test.

Jim
 
Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
Bolt on a brand new cat and get it hot.
It'll pass.

I have tried all kinds of tricks and a hot cat will cure alot of the emissions problems.
 
ed hess

ed hess

race or get outta the way
Loeryder said:
Bolt on a brand new cat and get it hot.
It'll pass.

I have tried all kinds of tricks and a hot cat will cure alot of the emissions problems.
Click to expand...

I ruined my new cat because i was running to rich on my 1st ultimate and then again to rich initially with my dfi.

want to know how to test your cat to see if it has failed...

get a meter that can read the input vz output temps on the pipes.

if they are the same the cat aint workin.
 
G

Guest

Guest
It has been my experience to pass emissions without a cat and EGR, that the timing must also come dowm considerably. On my stock ECM, I unplugged the timing connector, placed electricians tape across the engine check lite portion of the dash, and adjusted the rpm up to 1050. When in line awaiting your turn, keep it running to keep the heat in it.

The tape hides the check engine lite being on, and the extra rpm helps keeping a zero advance motor keep running. Do this next door to the emissions place, do not drive it in this condition as it won't have the power to get out of it's own way. There will be enuff to crawl into the emissions place tho.

Now with FAST, I fortunately can do this via keyboard. Lowering the fuel pressure definately helps also. If you can find a place local, where for $30 you can use their sniffer to play..... then you will know for a fact what each and every change does. It is worth the effort and expense. HTH,
 
sy#2716

sy#2716

SyTy 4 Life
I found this on cz28.com and i don't know if it will help i know that it is kinda cheating the system but though i might try to help!
Allright guys well incase you haven't heard a buddy of mine with a cc306, LT's, Ported heads, 1.6rr went to get his emmissions done again and agian and after failing the for the third time.

My uncle and his hot rod buddies told us to hook up a compressed air tank and tape it into the exhaust before the cat/sniffer(duh) rig a switch connected to petal, then open up the tank and hope. They said the compressed O2 will change the mixture of expelled exhaust and flush out.

Here is the previous thread!
http://web.camaross.com/forums/show...agenumber=1went this afternoon

Well it worked we routed an a compressor hose from the tank under the carpet and out through a rubber plug under the passenger seat and taped it into the pipe right before the cat!

The test was in Georgia and it was a rolling smog w/sniffer on a 94z the NO2 had the biggest noticable diffrence which went from 1100 down 100 where 750 is passing
and CO went from 1.02 down to .42

Hope this might help some of you fellas. Now grumpygeezer(grumpygreaseape) or whoever can take a peak at redneck technology!
 
T

truckins10

Member
1. You dont have to worry about anything to do with EGR, like previouly mentioned, it only controls Nox

2. If you have the FP set so low that the truck is missing just idling there your making things worse instead of better. If so, your cause a lean missfire which inturn send raw fuel out the tail pipe which would explain why your numbers are so high. Set FP as low as you can without missfiring.
DO THIS BEFORE LOWERING FP.....
3. A major component for emission is the O2 sensor. Just because it does not set a code does not mean it is working good. Hook a volt meter to the signal wire from the O2 sensor and watch the numbers for patterns. The numbers should be switch at least once every second below and above .5volts or so. If its taking more than a couple of seconds to switch from lean to rich or rich to lean, thats a lazy O2 and needs replacement.

4.Converter is the second major emission component. To check converter by temperature.... Drill hole right before and right after exhaust and compare the temps when the truck is fully warmed up after a drive. There should be a min. differance of 100degrees F (I think F??) Anything significantly below that and the cat is not converting the HC and CO. The majoity of the time it is a bad cat(could also be caused by no oxygen entering the cat) After your done the check just install some self tapping lag bolts in the holes.

If that doesnt help than chech anything that would cause the truck to run rich.........
Leaking/Dirty injectors
Bad MAP sensor

If all else Fails just retartd the timing...
Thats all the major things I could think of. Let me know Fern Sy#477
 
S

Sy0569

New member
Just an update guys...I know it has been a while, but life has been hectic. Also, thanks to all that have helped.

I checked everything out, replaced the o2 sensor, oil change, etc., etc. and these were the results...

Hydrocarbons: 332 Acceptable: 220 Result: Fail
Although I still failed the numbers came way down, initial test was 683

-I'm going to replace the cat know, hopefullyit will help.

Carbon Monoxide: 0.8 Acceptable: 1.2 Result: Pass!

It was kind of funny, I was really excited about the numbers, I think they thought I was crazy because I still didn't pass....Still got the, "why don't you just take it to a professional now."

Although these trucks can be a total pain, it's great learning new things about them and how they run well. Thanks guys.
 
S

Sy0569

New member
Hey Brian-

160 deg. thermostat, also my engine temps were way low, I'd say in the 140 deg. ballpark. That is according to the stock gauge though FWIW.
 
sy2207

sy2207

Donating Member
Throw a 180 in there, just to pass smog with. This will make a very noticible difference.

Brian
 
G

GM TURBO

Sell Out
Brandon - the problem you are going to run into now is it is cold in Chicago. I passed with a 160* during the summer. What you could do to try to generate some heat is throw a piece of card board in front of the radiator. I don't know if that'd help get them high enough or not. But really - it is probably easier to change the stat to a 195* for the day.
 
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