How do I wire a lighted TCC lock up switch?

[sy2185]

That's just about the whole question. I'm no master auto electrician but I do make a living fixing copper wire carrying +/- 280vdc across 35k'+, so I'm all over capacitance, sectionalizing faults, current draw, loss, etc. I just would like to know how I could get either a 3pole lighted rocker/toggle siwitch or a dark switch w/separate led to light when turned on w/o sending the +12v through the ckt.
Do I need some kind of isolated 4 pole switch? It's so I don't forget to leave it off except at the track.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[ed hess]

I used painless wiring no 80401 red led lighted switch or you can use painless wiring 80405 blue lighted switch.
On aldl conncetor under dash terminal A (ground is upper right hand corner)
On aldl connector terminal f (tcc is upper left hand corner)

The swithces are labled with terminals
4 goes to switched ignition
3 output of switch goes to terminal f of aldl (tcc)
2 input of switch goes to ground terminal a of aldl (ground)

I had to use a diode on the output side of the switch with the stripe facing the the switch (I think this was the proper direction) The diode no in4004 was because otherwise the led will give you a low glow when everything is off, which you dont want. If you put the diode the wrong direction you will block the flow of ground towards the tcc termianl which would render the switch useless.
ed

 

[sy2185]

that's just what I was looking for.Thanks
Jeremy

 

[BillC]

An better way to do it would be to use a relay. Wire up the relay so the TCC wires go to the Normally Open ("NO") contacts. Then, wire up the switch so it turns the relay on (closes the contacts) when the switch is on. You'll need to find power to operate the switch and the relay -- use an ignition-switched source, so you don't accidentally drain your battery by leaving the switch on. Also, put a fuse on the power to the switch.

Don't use the power from the TCC lockup to light the switch. If you hook it up wrong, you'll end up with the TCC permanently locked. If you hook it up correctly, your switch could end up drawing too much power and damage the ECM (or, at a minimum, not be bright enough to see).

Good Luck.

 

[mrweelr]

Holy crap, can't you tell when your TC is locked? Saturday night, after the race with the '02 WS6, I forgot to unlock my TC at the next light. I knew right away it was still locked when the motor bogged like a mofo at part throttle. If you like lots of lights and switches though, go for it.

 

[ed hess]

Thats why using a switch with a light! now for those people that wont pay attention to the LIGT STILL BEING ON as they leave the track.
use the red switch... just think of it as you just did something stupid if you see it on while your driving down the street. Hey isnt that what the bottom light on the tree means.... Yo dude you just made a mistake (usually said in a differnt manner)


ed

 

[mrweelr]

I use a switch I bought from Kenne Bell to lock up my TC. It doesn't light up or anything but I have it mounted near my right knee and I know which position is "locked" and which is "unlocked." I only lock it if I'm racing or using the G-Tech to get 0-60 times. My point was, it's really obvious when the TC is locked; the truck drives totally different.

 

[ed hess]

yep
this has gotta be the cheapest 2 tenths you can buy!
ed

 

[hptorque]

sorry for the dumb question but what exactly does locking up the tc do?
i have heard it is like adding another gear, and that locking it allows you to launch better.
anyone have a good explination. and how this affects syty's. thanks.

 

[ed hess]

dont know about helping at launch but basically it locks up the torque converter in 2nd, 3rd, and, 4th.
As brian hartman told me in an email, it may help it may not so try it.
I tried it saw a 2 tenth difference.
ed

 

[sy2185]

It makes the TC lock similar to having the clutch out on a man- there's no "slip" , allowing all power through the tc like it's one piece. It's been known to cut ets anywhere from .1 to .3 seconds(I consistently run a quarter second quicker when locked), but the real performance benefit is from the weight savings. As soon as you start w/the TCC switch even if your trans doesn't blow from the launches , the lockup, or the heat; you'll want more.
Now take all the money you have, some you don't and some you'll never see. Send all this to your trans guy of choice(follow people's suggestions here) and start looking for the biggest trans cooler you can find.With no money you won't be eating much-no time anyway, you gotta do a trans- and selling the CD player and amp out of your truck will help cover the $, and further the weight savings.
To me, that's what a TCC switch does. A whole bunch.
As for needing a light to know TC is locked- it's not so much so I don't leave it on, it's so I don't forget to flip it at the starting line.
I was unaware the TCC wire at the ALDL has voltage on it- I thought it just carried a ground to the sol., locking the TC.
A relay is a good idea, but with a bed mounted batt. and all my wiring already done to dual underhood relays for my SMC and laptop charger/future Apex-i boost controller, and my trans cooler and fuel pump relays in the bed I don't need to add any more stuff. I'd rather wire it up w/o bringing any more wires through the firewall seeing as how all I need to add is a switched ground. Found a 4 pole illuminated, isolated toggle switch. ! wire to TCC, 1 wire to grd(prolly 16ga.)then 1 low current wire to an ign. on batt. source, and the last wire to ground(not tied to other grd. wire).TaDaaa!
Jeremy