like the bionic man......
- Thread starter E-Rue
- Start date
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
I SEE DIRT!!!!!! :evil:
:lol:
:lol:
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
ed hess said:morgan
You see dirt because Erue also has some thing you dont!
ed
answer: JOB
I have a job you ass! :evil:
I work 40 hours a week just like most everyone else, so blow me.
when you pull a motor out of a truck its going to be dirty.
incase you dont know whats going on.......
i blew up my mccoy motor, and im getting ready to fix it. its dirty cause i just pulled it out of the truck. we will be doing a full autopsy very soon, and ill post more pics of whats inside when we get that far.
e
incase you dont know whats going on.......
i blew up my mccoy motor, and im getting ready to fix it. its dirty cause i just pulled it out of the truck. we will be doing a full autopsy very soon, and ill post more pics of whats inside when we get that far.
e
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
ohhhhhhhh, ok, I thought it was on its way back inE-RUE said:
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
NJTy180 said:
Shit...40hrs a week? I hit 40hrs by wednesday afternoon...when I'm jogging across the street to get a twix bar & Dr. Pepper to re-energize.
vortecfiero
New member
Re: like the bionic man......
Is that Lindsey Wagner's reflection I see ?
that will make the Bionic Woman happy ! :wink:
Is that Lindsey Wagner's reflection I see ?
E-RUE said:
that will make the Bionic Woman happy ! :wink:
oh its back on dave...... we are humping like bunnies man!
here are the initial findings of the tear down.
this one shows the wear of the main bearings.
check the bearing. (eagle rods and TRW deep dish pistons)
of special interest here is the chanels the machinest has put under the bearings. the bearings had several holes drilled in them to help with oiling. also, if you look closely there is metalic grey where the stock 2 bolt main caps sat in the register. this indicates the caps were moving a little. something we plan on fixing. i guess what we have been told is true about the stock 2 bolt caps. we are talking about machining the cap tops flat and using thick billet straps rather than 4 bolt conversion caps. should keep the caps from moving, and be at least as strong as the stock crank. one problem that was very evident is the looseness of the stock timing chain. when the caps are machined, and the mains are align honed the crank ends up even closer to the cam, increasing the already noted slop in a stock timing set. we are doing something different here as well.
i took several pics of the heads, none of which turned out good at all. im still getting used to this fancy camera i have. things i forgot to take pics of include the many pieces that the valve springs were in. im sure some of my valve chatter was caused by pieces of the inner coil flopping around instead of doing their job. as i understand it the inner coil is just a harmonic damper rather than an actual spring anyway.
so far all the hard parts look great. pistons rods, and crank all look like they can be reused. as of yet, we havnt found the cause of the oil in the #6 cylinder. stay tuned for more pics and info after cleanup. we should have a better idea of the cause of failure when everything is spotless.
e
here are the initial findings of the tear down.
this one shows the wear of the main bearings.
check the bearing. (eagle rods and TRW deep dish pistons)
of special interest here is the chanels the machinest has put under the bearings. the bearings had several holes drilled in them to help with oiling. also, if you look closely there is metalic grey where the stock 2 bolt main caps sat in the register. this indicates the caps were moving a little. something we plan on fixing. i guess what we have been told is true about the stock 2 bolt caps. we are talking about machining the cap tops flat and using thick billet straps rather than 4 bolt conversion caps. should keep the caps from moving, and be at least as strong as the stock crank. one problem that was very evident is the looseness of the stock timing chain. when the caps are machined, and the mains are align honed the crank ends up even closer to the cam, increasing the already noted slop in a stock timing set. we are doing something different here as well.
i took several pics of the heads, none of which turned out good at all. im still getting used to this fancy camera i have. things i forgot to take pics of include the many pieces that the valve springs were in. im sure some of my valve chatter was caused by pieces of the inner coil flopping around instead of doing their job. as i understand it the inner coil is just a harmonic damper rather than an actual spring anyway.
so far all the hard parts look great. pistons rods, and crank all look like they can be reused. as of yet, we havnt found the cause of the oil in the #6 cylinder. stay tuned for more pics and info after cleanup. we should have a better idea of the cause of failure when everything is spotless.
e
E-RUE said:
something else.... if the crank is located closer to the cam, and the stock timing set is stretched, the cam will obviously be retarted. everything you do has an effect on the operation of the system or parts and how they do their job. being an anal basterd when building a motor is a great quality to have. lol
e
myclone
Donating Member
E-RUE said:
Just FYI...
Timing chain sets are available that have a "shorter" chain just for blocks that have had several line bores since that effectively puts the cranck closer to the cam. I dunno if they have them for the factory type roller cam apps but I remember seeing them for the old style flat tappet.
You would be suprised at how far even a quality double roller chain will stretch in only a matter of a few miles.... The only real way to counter act that is to install the cam a deg or two advanced then put some miles on the engine so that the chain strectch will bring the cam back into correct timing. Other than that the only thing you can do is live with the chain stretch (or use a gear or belt drive but thats a whole other can of worms for our applications). One more tid bit is that you dont want a SUPER tight timing chain as it puts stress on the cam bearings.
When it comes to timing chains, dist gear/cam gear mesh, and correct timing of the cam and distributor its a compromise between accuracey and durability/cost/ease of maint. A gear drive is almost 100% accurate over the life of an engine but its not cheap and can be a hassle to get it to work with the knock sensor. Belt drives are better than all the above except for the fact they are SUPER expensive and the dry ones are subject to damage from road debri. The good ol timing chain isnt the best at any one thing but it has all the others above problems covered with only slight timing inaccuracey. The question is how much do you want to spend and is getting the cam timing within 1/100 of a deg really worth the expense/hassle for a street engine?
my .02
what's the part number on the longer chain? i'd like to get one. my block had three line hones. i can hear my chain rattling against the cover. it just started doing it last week.
my rod bearings looked just like yours with the scoring. any ideas what happened?
one other thing i noticed- routing of the belt around the little pulley underneath the a/c delete. does that require a longer belt? the diagram on the radiator bracket shows the belt not routed around the little pulley when using a/c delete. is your tensioner a little looser then stock?
*edited for clarity
my rod bearings looked just like yours with the scoring. any ideas what happened?
one other thing i noticed- routing of the belt around the little pulley underneath the a/c delete. does that require a longer belt? the diagram on the radiator bracket shows the belt not routed around the little pulley when using a/c delete. is your tensioner a little looser then stock?
*edited for clarity