lowering blocks

syty9933

New member
Right now i im installing 2 inch blocks. I had a shop put on beltech drop springs and they didnt reinstall the stock wedge, and im wondering if my pinion angle is going to be off with no wedge. Can i finish putting everything else back together or do i need to get new wedges?

Also I already have one side completly together by drilling through the center of the block and now have to grind the bottom of the bolt going through the springs to get it to fit in the indent in the u bolt axle plate. But my friend and even some posts on this forum are saying you can use the stock leaf spring bolt and that you don't have to drill through the lowering block. Which way is correct?
 

BoostedSUV

Active member
Re: lowering blocks

My lowering blocks just sat on top of the leaf spring bolts. I didn't have to drill out anything on the blocks. Also you should have the wedge in place because the lowering block will throw off the pinion angle even further. The wedge bolts to the leaf springs but the blocks should just sit in between the rear and the spring and be held in place by the U-bolts.
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: lowering blocks

you need the wedge or you will have a vibration in the u joint. esp since you have lowered it even more.
 

syty9933

New member
Re: lowering blocks

alright thanks, is it possible to get wedges anywhere but the internet or do i have to order them?
 

syty9933

New member
Re: lowering blocks

should i buy stock wedges or are any better for pinion angle with drop leafs and blocks?
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: lowering blocks

I have a spare set of stock springs, I can check and see if the wedges are on them. pm me if you want them.
 

Houseofperformance

switchhappy!!!
Re: lowering blocks

just lowered mine with 2" blocks - i first did it without drilling the block in this order: spring - wedge - block - axle. i noticed that the axle isn´t centered anymore and was moved forward quite a bit.
dissasembled it again, bought 2 M10 bolts 120mm length, ground the head of the bolts round, drilled a 10mm hole through the blocks and removed the "nipple" on the block, removed the original bolt holding the wedge (use c-clamp on springpack so it stays assembled) and assembled it like this: spring - block - wedge - axle using the new bolts, they go through the wedge, block and spring now with the heads ground to 14mm diameter so they fit in the hole on the axle where the original wedge bolts used to sit. - now the rearend is centered again - looks much better.
 
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