Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
Sounds like you are on the right track, keep pluggin' and keep us posted.
-Will
-Will
New guy
- Thread starter Ty1173
- Start date
Finished vaccum lines. Guess what? No F-ing difference. If I easy the throtle it will accelerate great and most of the time will get over ten pounds. If I dump on it, it does fine till 10 psi after that it cuts out stutters and falls on it's face. If I back out if it alittle it picks up and goes like hell. I'm still trying to get those DM files open. I know I keep repeating myself but I hoping someone else may be able to give me another idea. The only other thing I can think of is the plug wires. Only problem is the lack of income, I can't afford new ones right now. So it looks like my search will continue.
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
Ty1173 said:
You need somebody to spot you on the plug wires?
Will_in_Denver said:
Just ohm test the wires and everyone of them has around a 5000 ohm resistance. That's providing my meter is right and I know what I'm doing. Does 5 g's sound resonable? I also checked gap and everthing is good there. Upon inspection though I noticed a small crack in the #4 boot. I know this is not good but, well u know lack of $. Anyway I don't think that could be the problem. If the spark is arking it would do it all the time, right? The probllem is still there just not as prominant. Can a weak ignition show signs only at high demand or would it be all the time? Like a bad or going bad module. It is still the OEM so I don't know what the life is on them. I have a Blaster coil and read in one of the posts that the MSD isn't that great. Does the coil need to be mounted to ground it, I was thinking of trying the old one to see if it may be that, and I was going to just hook it up and let it hang instead of going through the bull to swap them. I've been checking the codes and nothing has been thrown. The tack does flutter alittle when it's studdering but I think it's just jumping cause of the engine r's. Also I did the switch of the boost gauge line and I'm alittle confused. When I had the gauge feeding off the MAP line it was around the same reading as the stock. Now the pillar gauge will show 10 psi and the stock shows 13-15. Is the reading more accurate off the brake booster feed? I followed the instructions on syty archives so I hope I wasn't mislead. So if anyone has got any other suggestions I'm all ears!
TY1173
:banghead: :banghead:
midnightbluS10
Banned
IMO, weak ignition would definitely show signs at high demand. Not sure about everywhere else. I don't think there would be any problems with letting the col hang to see if that was the cause. I did it in my S-10. Stock gauges aren't the most reliable things out there. I'd guess that the reading from the brake booster is more accurate, as that seems to be the route most(that I've seen on here) go when using an aftermarket gauge.
Ty1173 said:
Okay where to start?
1. Ignition can act totally normal and run well under low or no boost. I had a wire that showed no continuity at all but would fire the plug until boost came up.
2. Crack in the boot is a no-go item.
3. 5000k is way high resistance. The ones I have dealt with that go that high are about shot.
4.MSD coil-take it off until you get problems solved. Installed one on a Typhoon just over a week ago and it caused significant knock. removed it knock was gone. Stock coil has powered trucks to the 10's.
5.It is generally accepted to not use the MAP sensor line. Use another port and make sure that your line going to the gauge is in good shape.
6. Fuel pressure should not jump. It should smoothly increase 1lb of fuel per 1 lb of boost. say you have 46lb of base fuel pressure-at 14 lbs of boost you should see 60lbs. of fuel pressure. You were worried about a lack of volume. If the fuel pressure tests correctly this way you have adequate volume. If it doesn't check regulator,pump,filter,and for kinked fuel lines.
Hope this helps the wife is yelling at me so I gotta go :wink:
Sy769 said:
I know the crack is a no-go but I'm out of work right now. As far as the ohm reading the book says that under 25000 is acceptable. That's according to GM. The MSD has been on for about 3 years now and the problem I'm having is new. My pressure gauge isn't long enough for me to read it on a road test so I need to borrow my friends and test it under boost. I tied a zip tie on the crack to test and the truck ran alot better. So for now I'm going to have to deal with it till I can afford new wires. I'll atill try the stock coil for shits-n-giggles. I'm still curious about the module. Is there a recomemded aftermarket or should one stick with the OEM. How can I test the module? My next investment will be a fuel pressure gauge to fill my 2nd pod hole.
TY1173
:banghead: ::thumbsup::
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
I need new wires too, it's time to change the oil.
Which ones are you after?
I am trying to see what is awesome right now.
Thinkin' nology.
I'll just buy 2 sets and spot you, if you want.
You better be at the F'n nats though and buy me a gin-n-tonic and shit...
:wink:
-W
Which ones are you after?
I am trying to see what is awesome right now.
Thinkin' nology.
I'll just buy 2 sets and spot you, if you want.
You better be at the F'n nats though and buy me a gin-n-tonic and shit...
:wink:
-W
Hey preciate the offer but just got called back to work today. So I'll probably be getting them within the next week or so. I'm still not sure which ones I want. I'm leaning towards the ATR's. I'll have to check the Taylors out cause I've heard good things. Most likely it'll be 1 of those 2. I dout I'll be at Nats, planning to vacation in Montana for 2 weeks of so. I don't think the boss will like me taking too many more, especially after beeing off for 2 month w/ a broken wrist. "Thinkin' nology" ?? Any ideas on the 5000 ohms on the plug wires? Good-bad? With me back to work I'm hoping to do a few more things, providing the "other half" will allow it.
TY1173
::thumbsup::
TY1173
::thumbsup::
rockvillespeed
Member
i GUARANTEE you that crack in 4 is hurting.
go to your local speedshop and buy a replacement boot kit for less then 5 dollars and fix the wire.
my shit is doing a s imiliar deal to yours - i'm curious what you'll find.
go to your local speedshop and buy a replacement boot kit for less then 5 dollars and fix the wire.
my shit is doing a s imiliar deal to yours - i'm curious what you'll find.
rockvillespeed
Member
oh - if u ahve red msd's, they start new at 50 ophms/foot.
any more then 200/foot and i'd call them toast.
any more then 200/foot and i'd call them toast.
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
Daron said:
P/N?
Free "haircut" at the nats...
Will_in_China
Truckless Wonder
TookyCat said:
One oil change...