Q about install roller rockers (+)
- Thread starter Flint
- Start date
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Q about install roller rockers (+)
You lifter need to be pump up (soaked in oil) and you will need to set the preload to about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past zero lash. You can do a search on the internet (or comp cams) for how to determine zero lash. They can explain it a lot better than I can.
You lifter need to be pump up (soaked in oil) and you will need to set the preload to about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past zero lash. You can do a search on the internet (or comp cams) for how to determine zero lash. They can explain it a lot better than I can.
Re: Q about install roller rockers (+)
Can't tell from the pictures but are those self guided rockers?
If not then you need guide plates. If they are then you need washers under the studs to take up the space the guide plates would have taken. That's assuming your machinist cut the stud boss to allow room for the plates. You have to tell them to not cut for plates since it's normal to cut them for the plates. If running guide plates you need hardened push rods designed for that. With a boosted motor even though it's low rpm you need good push rods. Get the .080 moly ones. Summit/Trick flow are the cheapest. If you decide to go with the more expensive rods like comp then just spend a little more and go with Manton. Manton will walk through the whole thing if needed. The LSx guys have found a little power up top going to better push rods even on a stock motor. The LSx cams can be easier on the valve train than some of the gen 1 cams due to the 1.7 rocker and higher rpm they usually turn. With all the changes you've made, cam, head, and especially the rockers you should get a push rod length checker and see just exactly what length push rod you need. The various web sites will tell you how to do that also. The best way to measure the length checker is to take it to a machine shop that has a 325mm dial caliper or mail it to whomever you're getting the rods from and let them measure it. Oh yea, while your there, put a straight edge across all the valve stems and verify all the tips are close to the same height. It's about .020 max difference but I'm not positive on that number. This can effect the push length and tell you how well the valve job was done.
The only thing soaking in oil does is get the rollers lubed. The air stays trapped in the lifter. The best way to do it is to get a pre-lube drive or make one out of an old distributor. It gets installed in place of the dist to turn the oil pump. You turn the luber with a drill and slowly turn the motor over at the same time until you get oil out of every push rod up into the rocker. This verifies oil flow to the rocker and pumps the lifters up. It's more important to verify the oil flow than pump the lifter up. You also need to get all that excess locktite off there. It can flake off and get stuck in the oil pump internal relief or the oil filter bypass if your still running one of those. Going through all this will make more power and make it last longer.
It's also the way a good builder would do it if you paid him.:2cents:
Also, can't tell from the pictures but those valve seals look like teflon pc seals since they are all white.
Those aren't a good idea on a street motor since they don't last. You want the stock style vortec viton seals.
I can't remember the name of them. I usually just point to the ones I want.
Make sure you clean out the inside of the push rods with air at least. I squirt brake clean through them and blow out with air then eye ball through the hole into a light.
edit: aaahh just noticed your in Russia......wow what a pita this turned into for you.
Can't tell from the pictures but are those self guided rockers?
If not then you need guide plates. If they are then you need washers under the studs to take up the space the guide plates would have taken. That's assuming your machinist cut the stud boss to allow room for the plates. You have to tell them to not cut for plates since it's normal to cut them for the plates. If running guide plates you need hardened push rods designed for that. With a boosted motor even though it's low rpm you need good push rods. Get the .080 moly ones. Summit/Trick flow are the cheapest. If you decide to go with the more expensive rods like comp then just spend a little more and go with Manton. Manton will walk through the whole thing if needed. The LSx guys have found a little power up top going to better push rods even on a stock motor. The LSx cams can be easier on the valve train than some of the gen 1 cams due to the 1.7 rocker and higher rpm they usually turn. With all the changes you've made, cam, head, and especially the rockers you should get a push rod length checker and see just exactly what length push rod you need. The various web sites will tell you how to do that also. The best way to measure the length checker is to take it to a machine shop that has a 325mm dial caliper or mail it to whomever you're getting the rods from and let them measure it. Oh yea, while your there, put a straight edge across all the valve stems and verify all the tips are close to the same height. It's about .020 max difference but I'm not positive on that number. This can effect the push length and tell you how well the valve job was done.
The only thing soaking in oil does is get the rollers lubed. The air stays trapped in the lifter. The best way to do it is to get a pre-lube drive or make one out of an old distributor. It gets installed in place of the dist to turn the oil pump. You turn the luber with a drill and slowly turn the motor over at the same time until you get oil out of every push rod up into the rocker. This verifies oil flow to the rocker and pumps the lifters up. It's more important to verify the oil flow than pump the lifter up. You also need to get all that excess locktite off there. It can flake off and get stuck in the oil pump internal relief or the oil filter bypass if your still running one of those. Going through all this will make more power and make it last longer.
It's also the way a good builder would do it if you paid him.:2cents:
Also, can't tell from the pictures but those valve seals look like teflon pc seals since they are all white.
Those aren't a good idea on a street motor since they don't last. You want the stock style vortec viton seals.
I can't remember the name of them. I usually just point to the ones I want.
Make sure you clean out the inside of the push rods with air at least. I squirt brake clean through them and blow out with air then eye ball through the hole into a light.
edit: aaahh just noticed your in Russia......wow what a pita this turned into for you.
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