Vibration issue HELP

Gbodydriver

Member
Took my Ty to the track a few weeks ago and noticed that when I boost launch it vibrates and takes off slow.. Does'nt seem like the trans is slipping but the power is definitly not making it to the wheels. I also noticed a similar vibration in the top of first gear. Only does this when when Im 100% on throttle. Rides fine through all other gears highway and all...

60ft's were 2.1 & 2.2.. Qtr was 14.7's

Ty is bone stock 151k miles

Suggestions on what I should check please....
 

T-Bone

Active member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

My guess is the torque converter :dunno:

If it were the propshaft, the power would still be there regardless of a vibration.
 

T-Bone

Active member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

I'm thinking the converter or transfer case also.. How do you test a converter?


I have no idea but a reputable tranny shop could advise you. I am guessing it would have to be removed to be checked but maybe there is a less painful way :dunno:
 

Gbodydriver

Member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

I have no idea but a reputable tranny shop could advise you. I am guessing it would have to be removed to be checked but maybe there is a less painful way :dunno:


I guess I'm going to buy some jackstands this week.... It sucks because the truck runs great overall. It just does this when I wanna open a can off whip@ss..

I almost just want to leave it alone
 

Norm

Donating Member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

I don't think it would actually be a power loss, but if your hearing something you might not be keeping your foot into it as long as you normally might.
 

Syclone#2960

What ever it takes!!
Re: Vibration issue HELP

Actually that interests me. The previous owner told me it needed a motor mount. Could this cause a power loss?


Yes the timing will retard if knock is detected. Open the hood and build boost against the brakes to watch if your motor is rising from the torque. Simetimes you find a busted/cracked fan shroud from the stock fan hitting it due to a broken motor mount on the driver's side.
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
Re: Vibration issue HELP

Ok maybe its just me but c'mon man, at 151k miles on the clock why even bother going to the track! The loss of power is because the truck is simply worn out.

Now the fix, I would say you probably need to replace and or upgrade just about everything.

Anyone on here that tells you otherwise for a truck with that kinda mileage doesnt have a clue and would have to be new around here. Geez am I the Only one that sees the obvious, wtf
 

Gbodydriver

Member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

I'm gonna check the engine mount Thursday to see how bad it is. I hear its a real pain in the arse to change one.. Guess i will see first hand soon....

I Would rather it be a mount them a trans or t case... I guess
 
Re: Vibration issue HELP

Are you sure what you felt isn't wheelspin because of a worn transfer case that isn't sending power to the front wheels?
 

IGottaSy

Active member
Re: Vibration issue HELP

Jackstand give me the creeps. I'd rather have good old sturdy wood or even the solid concrete blocks.
Torque converter test:
We should all know the torque converter is unlocked when brake pedal is pressed via the switch on the steering column. We should also know that when the converter unlocks/locks, the engine RPM will fluctuate by around 200-250 clicks when in OD. I didn't know all this. Now for the test procedure...
Get out on the road where you can manage to get into OD. Once it's up to speed, keep your right foot on the gas pedal while pressing the brake pedal SLIGHTLY to activate the switch which works/looks like the brake light switch. You should see the RPM fluctuate up and down as you operate the brake pedal. No change in rpm = non working converter. This is only for the lock-up type mind you. Hope it helps.
 
Re: Vibration issue HELP

Jackstand give me the creeps. I'd rather have good old sturdy wood or even the solid concrete blocks.
Torque converter test:
We should all know the torque converter is unlocked when brake pedal is pressed via the switch on the steering column. We should also know that when the converter unlocks/locks, the engine RPM will fluctuate by around 200-250 clicks when in OD. I didn't know all this. Now for the test procedure...
Get out on the road where you can manage to get into OD. Once it's up to speed, keep your right foot on the gas pedal while pressing the brake pedal SLIGHTLY to activate the switch which works/looks like the brake light switch. You should see the RPM fluctuate up and down as you operate the brake pedal. No change in rpm = non working converter. This is only for the lock-up type mind you. Hope it helps.

Wait. What? Jackstands give you the creeps? Explain that one.
 
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