Virgin Bowtie Block

MadPSI

Member
Casting Number 14044899
Never used, needs oil galleys gun-drilled.
2.00" cam journal.

Sonic checked, you can see the measurements written on the block.
Cylinder bores measure ~3.96" (quick measure with calipers)

$1,400 plus freight shipping. I am building a crate for it currently.

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Sy#1991

New member
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

If you look at the pics where the mechanical fuel pump goes (passenger side) between both freeze plugs is a large bowtie.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

I see the bowtie but I thought bowties had 4 bolt mains??
 

SY-1193

Active member
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

I see the bowtie but I thought bowties had 4 bolt mains??

Not all have 4 bolt mains.

The majority of the ones I have seen (Grumpy Jenkins had a whole collection of V6 Bowtie blocks) are 4 bolt but not all.
I have seen ones with 2 bolt mains.
Some have 4 bolt mains in the middle and not the front and back.
Some have 4 bolted on all the caps front middle and even the rear.
Every one I have seen has the bowtie with "HD" on the middle of the bowtie.
I don't see priority main oiling so I can only assume this is an older style?

This one is a tuff one I tried researching it and found nothing. I really only have info on ones from 2004 and up.
Maybe John (Winded V6) has some more info?

Good luck with the sale.
 

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

This may be GM part # 10134387 from 1992 which is a 2 bolt main block with as stated rough bore to 3.972 and will clean up at 4.00". It has a semi machine oil system and can use standard width v6 cam bearings or the wider cam bearing from the inline 6 cyl chevy engine. This block should weight about 160 lbs.
 
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Windedv6

Ty n 10s
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

Block was cast on March 2nd, 1987. Yes, 2 bolt blocks were cataloged in both a late 80's "Performance Parts" and a 1994 GM High Performance books that I have in my library. They don't list the casting number, but they do list 14044898 as the PN for the "semi-machined" heavy duty case in the early book, which I feel is about 1988-ish. My 1994 book lists the same 2-bolt "semi-machined" as 10134387, (which is what Lloyd came up with). The 94 book lists a fully machined, steel 4-bolt caps with splayed outer bolts as 10185051.

I also think I see the reason this block has never been used. It would p[robably be fine in a street application where absolute reliability and resistance to fatigue cracking is not as big a concern. But in NASCAR Truck, or IMSA GTP where these engines were racing for big money and/or part of a multi-million dollar Sponsorship Program, this block didn't 'make the cut'. Hint: It was sonic checked, and then put aside for 24 years.

EDIT: Mods: If the second paragraph is in violation of the "for sale" forum rules, please edit or delete my post as necessary. Thanks.

DaveP

It is true what Dave said and the price is right for this block. They should be no reason to delete part of Dean's post as we can only be a help to the seller with better information. A 4 bolt steel cap block, even if its only the two center ones and the machined oiling would bring this in the $2,000- $2,500 range so price is fine. Dave is also correct in the fact about the Nascar boys passing over any blocks that were not max wall thicknesses. They were going for the 4.125-4.155 bore capable blocks. Most virgin blocks found today (except a few of the latest sportmans blocks) were leftover blocks that need to stay in the 4.00 to 4.060 bore range .

I have had blocks like this in the past and they are just fine for 4.00 through 4.060 bore. The rule of thumb for our turbo motors is to have a minimun of .180 -.200 wall thickness left. This block could go 4.080 and still be fine.

My AWD block is a last model of these blocks made in 2002 (if I remember correctly). It is the CNC Bowtie Sportmans version and it had some wall thicknesses which were similar to this block. I run it 4.030 and it still has several cut left in it should I ever need them.

Have the oil galleries machined, add two steel center caps and you are good to go.:tup:

John
 
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MadPSI

Member
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

Thanks, John & Dave for the additional info. I bought these as a pair a couple years back and had them sonic checked at that time (not quite 24 years ago). One went to Mike Lee at RPM and I planned on putting this one in my truck. After sitting wrapped up in my garage for the last 2 years, I figured it might as well go to someone who will use it.
 

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
Re: Virgin Bowtie Block

Thanks, John & Dave for the additional info. I bought these as a pair a couple years back and had them sonic checked at that time (not quite 24 years ago). One went to Mike Lee at RPM and I planned on putting this one in my truck. After sitting wrapped up in my garage for the last 2 years, I figured it might as well go to someone who will use it.

What Dave meant about sonic checked 24 years ago was that the Nascar boys either relied on the factory sonic specs or had it done back when blocks were fairly new and only took the ones they wanted for their reasons. The rest were "shelved", so to speak. In this block's case, for approx 24 yrs. The 24 year age isn't a problem being some stock Sy motors are now 21 years old.

The thinnest wall here that I see is .254 and it"s currently a 4.00 bore, so taking the .054 off at the weakest point still leaves .200 as the thinnest wall . That means you can bore this to a 4.108 and still have .200 left.

As everyone can tell I have a sicknes for the bowtie motors. I just can't help my self. :) But anyone serious about play with decent hp in our trucks shound be using these. These blocks are so much better in so many was over the production line stock blocks. One more tidbit and then I will get off my box. There are trade offs buying a used "nascar" prepped bowtie block and a "never used" block. You may have some extra block prep to do on the "never used" block such as the oiling prep and the main caps, but many of the used raced prepped blocks have had work done to them so that we can't use them for our purposes. Altered cam and crank journals, mininum cut decks, certain dry sump conversions, block lighting by cutting off the starter mounts and shaving the motor mounts bosses, off-setting lifter bores etc, to name a few. Always understand what your buying.

There is nothing wrong with this block. It doesn't have a virus, cancer, an std, etc. It is as strong as a big bore bowtie block, but needs to stay in the small bore range. Remember GM threw any unusable blocks back into the fire.

John
 
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