Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

And well im not very happy with the results. Now keep in mind the truck has 160K miles and is pretty much all stock as far as i know. I has a high flow 1.5 cat on the end of the stock DP and a 3in into a 40series flow and then dumped before the axle. Stock boost controller hitiing abywhere from 12-13 to 14-15, has stock orange elbow at turbo inlet and a 90 degree 3in bend and then a K&N cone filter hanging by the battery. GM a/c delete pulley, ASP underdrive crank pulley and shorter belt, stock mechanical clutch fan and no shroud, EGR delete on otherwise stock chip, stock lower CCHE has been replaced with an a/c condensor in front of the rad with a non stock IC pump hotwired but imnot sure what pump, and 3/4 heater hoses for the IC lines, but the pump doesnt flow much, can hardly see the water moving around. Has Nology plug wires and fairly new cap and rotor, not sure brand and some kind of nology plugs, again not sure, but not very old either. Seems to run pretty good, trans was rebuilt around 20K miles ago and shifts nice and firm, althought the stall seems kinda tight, seems to want to pull thru the brakes when stopped at a light. Like i said fairly stock truck and only a few mods, oh it also has a sumped stock tank with an aeromotive A1000 external pump with -10 lines from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the junction by the trans and stock lines from there and stock return line, and stock FPR set around 40 at idle with the hose attached.

My first run i tried to get a good launce and didnt do well and ran a 9.75@72 with a 2.37 60', down right pathetic i know.

Well my second run i did better on the launce and got about 4-5 PSI and it pulled thru the brakes and i redlit by .0312 and ran a 9.56@73 with a 2.36 60' better but still pathetic.

I tried to get some datamaster runs, but on the first one when i went to replay it back something had happend to it, i need to recharge my laptop and look at it furthur. On the second run i had a long time in the staging lanes and my dam battery went dead, so no data there. One problem is it was running alotr warmer than it normaly does, see it used to have a ramchargers efan on it, but i sold it to go with the volvo setup from SonomaGTlover and im still waiting for it to come in, so i put the stock fan setup back on and that just dont do squat when idleing in the lanes like the efan does. Normally my truck stays right at 160 and the IAT is around 80-90 degrees and will creep to 120-130 or so during a WOT run, but at the track i was hitting 180+ at the start of each run and almost 195 on the 1st run and IAT well over 115, so i think that has alot to do with it.

Anyways im pretty imbarrased with thess times, but i though i would share them anyways.

I look forward to the boards feedback.

I guess i should add that this was a 1/8 mile track amd i had no traction problems.
 
Last edited:

s_blazin

Donating Member
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Would i be correct to assume you are running 1/8 mile? i have never ran 1/8 so i don't know what the comparison is but hey, it's a remotely stock truck with 160k? you must take real good care of it to be doing that on those miles. :D very surprised that it seems to hold up so well.


and JEALOUS!
don't feel to bad, there are those of us still trying break into all their piggy banks :rant: just to get a syty. :tup: :tup: for you!
 

QUICK STORM

B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

get rid of that flowmaster, work on your launch, see if you can get your intercooler setup to work more efficient.
 

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Ok um.. it's late and im half a sleep but i'll try to help a little

HotRodV6 said:
has a high flow 1.5 cat on the end of the stock DP and a 3in into a 40series flow and then dumped before the axle.

Im guessing that's a mistake on the cat size right? should be at least the stock size of
2 /12

HotRodV6 said:
Stock boost controller hitiing abywhere from 12-13 to 14-15

Pretty normal on stock trucks from what i've seen.. stock boost control blows especially one trucks with changes made to the exhuast.

HotRodV6 said:
GM a/c delete pulley, ASP underdrive crank pulley and shorter belt, stock mechanical clutch fan and no shroud,

How come your running no shroud? I would think the airflow isn't being directed where it should go correctly

HotRodV6 said:
EGR delete on otherwise stock chip

Stock chip with the EGR deletd without disabling it on the chip will cause a code and the truck will stumble during this little hissy fit.. at least that's what i've seen but I think it only occurs during normal driving conditions (steady speed) but that's something you should get resolved though eventually.

HotRodV6 said:
stock lower CCHE has been replaced with an a/c condensor in front of the rad with a non stock IC pump hotwired but imnot sure what pump

How efficient is this condensor over a stock cche?

HotRodV6 said:
and 3/4 heater hoses for the IC lines, but the pump doesnt flow much, can hardly see the water moving around.

Doesn't sound like a powerful pump unless you have a kink in one of the lines somewhere.. i'd check out the lines before you rule this out and yank the pump to see what brand it is. Have you had any issues with high intake temps? if so then maybe this setup isn't working well enough for you and is causing higher temps = knock= pulling timing

HotRodV6 said:
some kind of nology plugs, again not sure

You should yank them and either replace them with a plug that's knownn to work well with our trucks or at least check the gapping

HotRodV6 said:
seems to want to pull thru the brakes when stopped at a light.

I had this same problem.. My abs eventually took a dump and so I deleted that which resolved the problem for the most part.. then noticed that my brake pads up front where slightly beat.. replaced them and it holds fine now.

HotRodV6 said:
stock FPR set around 40 at idle with the hose attached.

I can't remember off hand if it registers fp with higher numbers when vac line is on or off.. Im pretty sure it's with the vac line disconnected.. in which case you want base 42lbs not with the vac line connected. This could be a problem... but it's 3am and im tired and possilby not thinking straight but someone will correct me if Im wrong.

HotRodV6 said:
I tried to get some datamaster runs

Datamaster is key.. without that your basically guessing it's running ok.
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Boostedpimp said:
Ok um.. it's late and im half a sleep but i'll try to help a little



Im guessing that's a mistake on the cat size right? should be at least the stock size of
2 /12

Ok, yes thats a typo it is a dynomax 2.5 high flow cat. It ran much better with no cat and would peg 15 PSI and no overboost cutout when you slammed the gas.


Pretty normal on stock trucks from what i've seen.. stock boost control blows especially one trucks with changes made to the exhuast.

Yeah it was alot more steady with no cat, but since i reinstalled a cat it is pretty much all over the place.



How come your running no shroud? I would think the airflow isn't being directed where it should go correctly

Well i bought the truck with the efans on it and the factory shrouds were long gone, the stock fan setup is only temp till my volvo fan gets here, hopefully in a week or so. And i was able to salvage my first run on datamaster and look at the data, when i left the line i was at 200 degrees engine temp and 120 IAT's, and the IAT's went to 136 and then cam back down and the engine temp didnty start to come down ill i was on the return road.


Stock chip with the EGR deletd without disabling it on the chip will cause a code and the truck will stumble during this little hissy fit.. at least that's what i've seen but I think it only occurs during normal driving conditions (steady speed) but that's something you should get resolved though eventually.

Well the previous owner just said the chip is stock with the exception of the EGR has been completely eliminated and i have no part throttle drivability problems.

How efficient is this condensor over a stock cche?

My guess is not at all, but when the previous owner bought the truck the stock lower CCHE and pump were completely gone, so he rigged this setup and never took the truck to a track only DD.



Doesn't sound like a powerful pump unless you have a kink in one of the lines somewhere.. i'd check out the lines before you rule this out and yank the pump to see what brand it is. Have you had any issues with high intake temps? if so then maybe this setup isn't working well enough for you and is causing higher temps = knock= pulling timing

Well that is the funny thing, i can run 87 or 93 in this truck and i do have a small amount of knock counts on DM, maybe 1500-3000 at the most and i never i mean never get any kinf of spark retard, it is always at zero, and the base timing on the engine has been advanced about 8-10 degrees or so and i need to set it back to zero.


You should yank them and either replace them with a plug that's knownn to work well with our trucks or at least check the gapping

Yes i plan on doing a complete tune up myself real soon, i had an MSD capo and rotor, with brass inserts, and will get some MSD wires and UR5 plugs. It has the MSD blaster coil already.

I had this same problem.. My abs eventually took a dump and so I deleted that which resolved the problem for the most part.. then noticed that my brake pads up front where slightly beat.. replaced them and it holds fine now.

Yeah my brakes need some major work also, but i have almost all the parts for a complete 4 wheel f-body disk conversion, so that shold have the holding power i need, im also installing dual front and rear line locks also.


I can't remember off hand if it registers fp with higher numbers when vac line is on or off.. Im pretty sure it's with the vac line disconnected.. in which case you want base 42lbs not with the vac line connected. This could be a problem... but it's 3am and im tired and possilby not thinking straight but someone will correct me if Im wrong.


Well i would imagine that with the vac line removed at idle the FP will go up, but i havent tried to remove the line and see where im at, i just know its at 39-40 with the line hooked up at idle.


Datamaster is key.. without that your basically guessing it's running ok.


Thanks for the feedback, and my engine temps and IAT's were only slightly lower for the 2nd run, so im pretty sure temps had a huge role in the way the truck was running tonite. Im going to do a full tune up and get the new volvo efan installed, and i have a dequick lower CCHE i need to install and im going to install an aux in front of the rad and redo the plumbing as well and new pump and that should improve the IC system.
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

QUICK STORM said:
get rid of that flowmaster, work on your launch, see if you can get your intercooler setup to work more efficient.


Well im actually going to be getting a 3in DP from JSM and with that will run a 3in high flow cat( i have to have one for emmisions) and full 3in exhaust with a dynomax ultraflow welded muffler and 3in tailpipe.

That will be a much better setup over whats on the truck now.

Im also planning on doing a hybrid 20G upgrade before the end of the year.

And i have a 422 cam and vortecs that will go on before the end of the year also, amd a 2800 stall.
 

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

HotRodV6 said:
dynomax ultraflow welded muffler and 3in tailpipe.

They are good mufflers.. I have one on my sy

Dif go over that IC system.. they may or may not be your problem entirely but is a problem that needs to be looked at for sure.
 

Syclones rock

New member
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

I have a performance cat and 3 inch ATR exhaust with no muffler in my Sy. so I say ditch the muffler all together :D . mufflers suck IMO
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

sounds like 60ft is the entire problem. 2.3 to a 1.7 "where you should be with a stock setup" is 1sec faster give or take a couple tenths. dont worry so much about the lights your time at the lights dont change your 1/8 mile time just sit there untill you have at least 7-10psi then leave. if you can ont hold that much work on the breaks then go back. with a 2.xxx you will never run a good time. a 1.8 should be the slowest 60ft with a stock set up.
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

get rid if the stock fuel lines. it makes no sense to enlarge all the line to -10 all the way to the junction and the just close off the fuel with the stock lines.this is'nt going to make you go faster just a issue i see that could be addressed.
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

CKEITH said:
get rid if the stock fuel lines. it makes no sense to enlarge all the line to -10 all the way to the junction and the just close off the fuel with the stock lines.this is'nt going to make you go faster just a issue i see that could be addressed.


Well this is how it was setup when i bought the truck. I have thought about buying some new fuel rails from RPM and plumbing the whole system in -10 all the way to the fuel rails and use an external aeromotive AFPR mounted to the firewall. I have all the parts except the fuel rails.

I dont think trhat will make the truck any faster in its current state though, as i dont think im having a fuel starvation problem.
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Raist103 said:
sounds like 60ft is the entire problem. 2.3 to a 1.7 "where you should be with a stock setup" is 1sec faster give or take a couple tenths. dont worry so much about the lights your time at the lights dont change your 1/8 mile time just sit there untill you have at least 7-10psi then leave. if you can ont hold that much work on the breaks then go back. with a 2.xxx you will never run a good time. a 1.8 should be the slowest 60ft with a stock set up.


Well in an otherwise stock truck, how do i get the 60' down, i mena it comes out of the hole pretty strong, but obviously not strong enough.

Is it just the launch i need to work on? I will be redoing the brakes in the very near future, so i should be able to do better once i get that done and fix the IC system.
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

HotRodV6 said:
Im also planning on doing a hybrid 20G upgrade before the end of the year.

.
What are the different things you are doing to make a hybrid 20G ?
Thanks
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

It's just a six said:
What are the different things you are doing to make a hybrid 20G ?
Thanks

Well i have been talking to Deadbolt Enterprises www.boostplanet.com and they have a TDO6H 20G and you can get an 8, 10, 12 or 14cm2 turbine housing and a garret compressor side up to a 60-1 to support according to them around the 600hp mark. And it retains a stock look which i kinda want to do. Im going to get a 3in DP from JSM and im looing at doing the 14cm2 housing with the 60-1 comp side with a 422 cam, and vortec heads and full 3in exhaust with tailpipe and high flow converter.

http://www.boostplanet.com/syty_garrett.htm


And the turbo will be completely brand new and they offer free rebuilds for life, not that you will need very many.

And there prices are some of the best around, they quoted me between 5-600 bucks out the door.
 

Teeleton

Non-Boosted
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Have you done a compression check on the engine? You might be getting a bunch of blow-by in one of the cylinders, and the pressure in the crankcase is causing the other bores to lose their seal.

Teeleton
 
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

Teeleton said:
Have you done a compression check on the engine? You might be getting a bunch of blow-by in one of the cylinders, and the pressure in the crankcase is causing the other bores to lose their seal.

Teeleton


No i havent done a Compression check on it yet, was going to do that when i pull the plugs and wires. Ive pulled the oil filler cap and i dont have any noticlbe blowby, but i guess a couple weak holes can be casuing some trouble.
 

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: Well, Tonite was my first trip to the tack in the Ty.

HotRodV6 said:
im looing at doing the 14cm2 housing with the 60-1 comp side

Your most likely going to have to upgrage your torque converter due to lag.. everyone i've seen on here with a 20g running 14cm2 housing had lag issues until they went to a slightly higher stall
 
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