myclone pics
- Thread starter myclone
- Start date
myclone
Donating Member
hamrhead said:
Thanks for the props.. Yes, Ive lowered the front but I couldnt tell you how much right off. I just started cranking on the torsion bar adjustment bolts till it "looked just right" to me but still had some decent front suspension travel. Rear was lowered with 2" blocks (Chassis Tech brand with the angle built in).
Mike,
LOL... Im kinda glad it followed you from GB or it'd still be sitting in the motel parking lot there :lol: . Oh, and dont even think that the thought of how best to make off with your truck didnt cross my mind a couple of times either
:wink: FYI, if you ever get down south this far ya better stop by the ol home place. Ms myclone said shed whip up some country cookin that'd make you wanna move down here (I told her you could put away some grub). She said no problem she likes a challenge..... Trust me, I now have an extra 40lbs to carry around that proves she can back up what she says!! 
canadian
sy in progress
how much room is there to fit those metal plates between the spring eye and the mount? i just put some es bushings in my springs (and not being at home to check it out), i would think there isn't enough room to fit the front mounts between the spring and mount. am i making sense here?
what size is the tube going from the front to the rear? 1 1/8" od? id?
myclone
Donating Member
canadian said:
how much room is there to fit those metal plates between the spring eye and the mount? i just put some es bushings in my springs (and not being at home to check it out), i would think there isn't enough room to fit the front mounts between the spring and mount. am i making sense here?
what size is the tube going from the front to the rear? 1 1/8" od? id?
Ahhh. You aska goot question gwasshoppa. :wink:
The plates are 3/16" and yes there is room on either side of the spring eye bushing. Heres the trick... 1) The spring bushing was replaced with a solid alum bushing. 2) I reused the metal sleave out of the inside of the stock rubber spring bushing and the alum bushing was drilled to accomodate this sleave. 3) The metal plates were drilled just the right size so that metal sleave fits through the plates and they pivot on it.
Follow what Im saying? That way the spring bolt wont crush the frame mount against everything when its tightened and bind it up since the spring bushing sleave is what the frame mount is tightened against. That allows the plates you see pivot freely but it just worked out that there is minimal clearance so they dont flop around either. FWIW....I also polished the steel sleave and cut some grooves in the in it then lubed it up with bearing grease before putting it in the alum spring bushing. This keeps the steel sleave from eating into the alum over time as the suspension moves.
The bar that the rod end is fitted to is 3/4 OD chromoly tube .083" wall thickness. I doubt they will bend as 3/4 is what you'll find under a lot of 4 link cars making HUGE hp with slicks and leaving off the trans brake/rev limiter. Cant bust em. :wink:
HTH
canadian
sy in progress
myclone said:
basically replaced the stock bushing with an aluminum one without reusing the outer shell. kept the inner sleeve, lube it good to make sure it won't chafe, then mount the plates to the inner sleeve. guess using the stock rubber bushing or a poly one would have too much compression to make it worth while right?
thanks for the info.
myclone
Donating Member
canadian said:
Thats it... The reason I did the alum bushing is that stock rubber or urathane bushings "stick out" a little further than the very edges of the spring when installed which wouldnt give me the space needed for the 3/16 plates on either side. I made my own alum bushings and cut them the EXACT same length as the width of the leaf spring. Ta dah... Just enough room for the 3/16 plate on either side of the spring.
Maverick87
Member
do the lumpytracks make much differnce in your 60' times?
myclone
Donating Member
Maverick87 said:
Dunno.. I cant get the trans to stay togeather long enough to find out. If ya wanna know the truth I dont think they'll help much. In what little testing Ive done they deffinately keep the rear from squatting real bad but they lift the front which unloads the front tires. I have yet to be able to do any real testing though.
Cal trac deffinately had a better idea but I was to cheap to buy theirs and wanted to try my own design. Ugh.. I shoulda just plunked down the $ and been done with it. That goes against my "I can do that....and prolly do it better" way of thinking though. :roll: