syclone #733 done for now

[93ty475]

so i decided to start the bodywork on my syclone...i will be assembling and installing the new engine before the cab goes back in...although it drives or should i say drove like new, this truck is in worse shape than i thought...there was alot of stuff bolted in the back of this truck that we've since removed...we repaired around 85 holes, in the bed alone...anywhere from "self tapping sheetmetal screw" size to 2" diameter hole-saw size...slow week due to heavy rains, so i borrowed a couple of "hands" from my tire business...the bodywork took us a week (between 2 and 4 people including myself at all times) working from 8am to around midnite every day of this past week as well as all day saturday...probably well over 100 hrs so far...i think the hard part is done...

 

[93ty475]

after removing the side mirrors, I removed the rubber moulding around the windshield...it's just held in by black silicone...the idea is to avoid as much paintjob evidence as possible before even starting...i also removed the passenger and driver side window wipers...the ones that snap out...so you dont get confused with which wiper, i mean the one you remove to use a slim jim on the door...

now on to the window channels...i promised myself after doing the ty, that i wouldn't remove window channels ever, on these trucks...i removed both sides on my ty doors....big mistake...window channels are a nightmare to deal with...then the metal frame in them bends even if you look at them wrong...after removing the wiper that i mentioned, you need a phone cable or any plastic or rubber cord thats about ~1/8" in diameter....take the cord and work it under the outer lip of the window channel...all the way around each window...this will lift up the rubber seal and let you get your bodywork and paint under the outer rubber seal...of course you can tape off the rubber to keep paint off of it...heres a pic...you have to look very closely to see the cord i used...



since the syclone is black, i decided to include both keyholes and door opener handles, in the paintjob...

 

[myclone]

I removed the rubber moulding around the windshield...it's just held in by black silicone...the idea is to avoid as much paintjob evidence as possible before even starting

That moulding around the windshield is gonna be a SOB to put back in now. That moulding gets put in when the windshield is installed and the urethane is wet. You might get it back in but there is a 99.9% chance it will start to come up later.

I used the wire/phone cord/whatever trick you talked about on this moulding too and used my finger nail to roll the masking tape underneath the moulding.

Anyway, good luck getting that moulding back in around the windsheild and getting it to stay put.

BTW, Ive eaten rattlesnake and it wasnt bad IMO.

 

[MyTyphoon1993]

Looks good, what color your gonna paint it.

 

[myclone]

Couple more things that may help your paint job turn out a little better..

The rubber around the windows in the doors is easily dealt with. Dont try to remove it all the way (if you do, dish washing liquid makes reinstall a breeze) just pull the moulding out from around the window opening and let it hang inside the truck. It wont hurt it and it goes back in around the window in ~10 seconds.

Last thing.. In the pic of the top corner of the door/cab roof it looks like you masked right up to the edge of the roof. Move your tape down some so that the rubber drip edge (the one thats ~2ft long) will cover the tape line when reinstalled. The way it looks like you have it now you end up with a tape line right on the edge of the roof where the top of the door meets it.

HTH

 

[93ty475]

http://www.northeastsyty.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album89&page=1

 

[93ty475]

Looks good, what color your gonna paint it.

black as black can be...i gave my supplier the paint code in the glovebox...

 

[MyTyphoon1993]

Looks good, what color your gonna paint it.

black as black can be...i gave my supplier the paint code in the glovebox...

Once you go black you never go back.
Good choice.

 

[93ty475]

Couple more things that may help your paint job turn out a little better..

The rubber around the windows in the doors is easily dealt with. Dont try to remove it all the way (if you do, dish washing liquid makes reinstall a breeze) just pull the moulding out from around the window opening and let it hang inside the truck. It wont hurt it and it goes back in around the window in ~10 seconds.

Last thing.. In the pic of the top corner of the door/cab roof it looks like you masked right up to the edge of the roof. Move your tape down some so that the rubber drip edge (the one thats ~2ft long) will cover the tape line when reinstalled. The way it looks like you have it now you end up with a tape line right on the edge of the roof where the top of the door meets it.

HTH

here's the rest of the pics of a long week of work...my door jams look factory new in this truck...in some of the other pics, you might be able to see what i will be trying with the door jams...we laid the tape in a straight fine fine around the inside of the door and where you saw it...i plan on carefully sanding the tape line in the door jams with fine sandpaper and try to blend the clear coat over the inside tape line before color sanding...i don't want to remove outside taping until the outside color sanding is done...i still have time to change my mind, but i'm pretty confident it will work...this is a budget job, but i dont want to tape around little labels in the door jams ...i did tape the weightlimit sticker in the back...in the gallery, the three stains on the roof are actually whats left of three 1" antenna holes...this thing is litterally as smooth as a baby's butt...we've spent most of the time on the inside of the bed...every single dent and hole, repaired...i welcome any other suggestions you or anybody might have...thanks

http://www.northeastsyty.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album89&page=12

 

[93ty475]

still hammering along...painted the cab, wiper grill thing, front side fenders and kept on sanding, repairing, and prime the bed throughout the day from morning to midnite again...i decided to forget about the booth and ended up painting in my 150'x35' toy/stuff garage..some dust settled on the pieces we painted, but color sanding outweighs the benifit of a small booth...a man that works for me happened to be a paint and body man for 30 yrs. before he worked for me...he's been with me for about 3yrs. now and we paint something from time to time (take a break from our regular stuff)...he's the polo hat guy in some of the pics....we just did my 2000 GT a couple of month's ago in the same color and system...turned out great and was good practice...in the following gallery, if you notice, after the first two coats of black, we gave the paint a 2 hour flash time then sanded it with 1500, cleaned it up again then shot two more coats of black, then 3 decent coats of clear to have some material to remove when final colorsanding...can be final colorsanded after 12 hours...hope you like it, it looks much better in person than the pics...the bed gets blackened tomorrow...still prepping the bed till around 2pm tomorrow, then paint, paint, sand, paint, clear, clear and clear...the link below should take you to page twelve of a chronological album of what has gone on since the last post i made...more to come...


http://www.northeastsyty.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album89&page=1

 

[93ty475]

painted and color sanded the truck in pieces...this is by far the best paint job we've put out since ~10 that we've ever done in my garage....the few dust particles that landed on it were completely sanded out...it has a mirror finish...my camera goes blurry on me sometimes...not such a great cam...this truck looks 100 times better in person than by photos...if you run your dirty hand over it, it feels like glass and doesnt get dirty...again we sprayed 2 coats of black, sanded, then two more coats of black, then before clear, i carefully peeled the tape we taped over the weight limit sticker then clearcoated 3 coats....then sanded the entire truck 1200...then sanded everything again with 1500, then did 3m compound and buffer glaze for dark vehicles with the respective 3m foam pads...took at least 170 man hours of works minus mine...i started the cladding repair and preparation tonight...i would really consider and appreciate any cladding ideas or colors to shoot...i think im going to use bulldog after thouroughly cleaning and prepping of it...

the rest of the pics can be found at naste...i thanks morgan for hooking me up with it...i can shave my album down soon because of the amount of photos...i just want people to check it out first...the most current pics start half way down this page...theres pics in there of the truck after sanding the 24 hour old paintjob...
the following first pic is a reflection through the passenger door...you can see through the back garage door and trailers in my yard about 50 yards away maybe...

 

[90stangGT]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

 

[skata]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

why are you questioning him for doing it the right way? :roll:

 

[90stangGT]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

why are you questioning him for doing it the right way? :roll:

The RIGHT way?? Ok, maybe YOU didnt understand what I'm saying. It would be logical to perform bodywork to small pieces of plastic when it is attached to something so it cannot move when being worked, sanded, etc. I did not mean to attach the cladding, paint the top of the truck and then the bottom. I didn't know there was a "right way" So im assuming he has some means to hold the cladding to be worked. I was not "questioning" his technique, I was merely asking why he choose that route, seeking advice from somebody who is completing what I will be doing in the next few weeks/month. :roll:

 

[93ty475]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

a couple of my cladding pieces need inside and out repair work and quite a few tab holes have to be filled...you'll find that when you remove the original cladding rivets, it's easy to mess up the holes where the rivets were...base color was 130.00 for the gallon of paint...also need a gallon of paint reducer that was ~40 bux...as far as the clearcoat went, the clear, activator and reducer costs around 125.00 for all three...also need other stuff like wet or dry sandpaper 320, 400, 600...also 32 grit for initial bodywork then 1200 grit and 1500 grit for the final finish...just get 3m if possible...i think the sandpaper sheets are around .80 cents a piece...

 

[Syborg Twin Turbo]

Servando - All i can say is nice work. I can't wait to see the truck in person.

If your asking for color suggestion for the cladding. I like the Silver color that is on Ry's from Colorado's Typhoon. It's a little different then the factory silver but makes a huge Difference. Maybe Will or Arron can get a few pics of it.

BTW - Ry's truck is white / custom silver

 

[90stangGT]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

a couple of my cladding pieces need inside and out repair work and quite a few tab holes have to be filled...you'll find that when you remove the original cladding rivets, it's easy to mess up the holes where the rivets were...base color was 130.00 for the gallon of paint...also need a gallon of paint reducer that was ~40 bux...as far as the clearcoat went, the clear, activator and reducer costs around 125.00 for all three...also need other stuff like wet or dry sandpaper 320, 400, 600...also 32 grit for initial bodywork then 1200 grit and 1500 grit for the final finish...just get 3m if possible...i think the sandpaper sheets are around .80 cents a piece...

Thank you for clarifying. I was in the dark trying to create a budget for paint. How many gallons of paint did you use?

 

[93ty475]

Servando - All i can say is nice work. I can't wait to see the truck in person.

If your asking for color suggestion for the cladding. I like the Silver color that is on Ry's from Colorado's Typhoon. It's a little different then the factory silver but makes a huge Difference. Maybe Will or Arron can get a few pics of it.

BTW - Ry's truck is white / custom silver

thanks for the compliment marty...if it wasn't for all the holesawing and drilling of the bed, i'd probably be done by now...i kinda like the silver color also...i'd sure like to see ry's silver color...i kinda like ed's black cladding with satin clearcoat i believe...also roberto's truck looks pretty sweet with the same color as the truck...tough decision here...i'll figure something out...

later,

 

[93ty475]

Looks good, but why did you opt to fix the cladding off the truck? When i do mine im going to leave it on the truck while i work it, seems easier. How much did the base/clear set you back?

a couple of my cladding pieces need inside and out repair work and quite a few tab holes have to be filled...you'll find that when you remove the original cladding rivets, it's easy to mess up the holes where the rivets were...base color was 130.00 for the gallon of paint...also need a gallon of paint reducer that was ~40 bux...as far as the clearcoat went, the clear, activator and reducer costs around 125.00 for all three...also need other stuff like wet or dry sandpaper 320, 400, 600...also 32 grit for initial bodywork then 1200 grit and 1500 grit for the final finish...just get 3m if possible...i think the sandpaper sheets are around .80 cents a piece...

Thank you for clarifying. I was in the dark trying to create a budget for paint. How many gallons of paint did you use?

when you buy 1 gallon of paint and 1 gallon reducer, you mix them 1 part to 1 part...so you get 2 gallons of paint for ~ 170.00...that seemed to be just enough for my syclone even using a little more than people usually use due to the sanding i did after the first 2 coats of black...most shoot 3 total coats of base then 2 clear...i did 2 black, sanded, then 2 more black, then 3 or clear...then i probably removed one of the clear coats buy sanding the heck out of it....and i still had a little paint left over...around a pint or so which would make a quart after mixing with reducer...

 

[93ty475]

might as well start on the frame today...my driver doesn't have any moves to do this morning...my pressure washer gets down to the metal...better hurry up and coat it...13 years of dirt and gunk...looking much, much better...